Welcome to the Chess thread!
2. OhioSTOPAS - 2/12/2000 2:03:02 PM
This thread will be about whatever contributors want it to be: our interests in chess, chess news, playing of the game, comments on chess politics, chess and real life, chess and other forms of life (on-line chess), why ARE there so few women players?, chess in fiction, and of course boasting about your skill.
Maybe we can play a game online - a consultation game between teams? But I haven't figured out yet how the team members can consult in private. Ideas welcomed!
One thing this thread will NOT be is a home for lame chess puns! I hope we all (yours truly included) got that our of our system earlier this week in the "Suggestions" thread. Such behavior will not be, um, Tal-erated.
3. OhioSTOPAS - 2/12/2000 2:11:26 PM
Are there any other rated chessplayers in the Mote? (By rated players, I mean members of the U.S. Chess Federation.) I'm a Master, with a rating in the 2200's; I also have a FIDE rating in the 2200's. Anyone else play tournament chess?
One thing I still have yet to do is play chess on the Internet. What are your experiences with on-line chess?
4. Al D - 2/12/2000 2:41:54 PM
Wow! I may be far out of my league for playing you guys, but i love the game and used to play a bit. I have not had much of a chance to play in Hi. and I have been here since 1979. Let's just say, in every sport, cnnon fodder is needed. So, I am interested and think having this Thread was an excellent suggestion. I am off to golf this fore-noon, but will check back around 5pm Hawaii time. At least I won't get doinged for my spelling errors.
5. Greystoke - 2/12/2000 3:22:20 PM
P-K4
6. KuligintheHooligan - 2/12/2000 3:50:22 PM
Ohio, I was a member of the USCF back in the 80s, with a rating in the 1900s. I won the "Greater South Jersey Open" in my category, but since the early 80s haven't played tournament chess at all. Well, actually, here in Windhoek I've played in some "tournaments," one-day "blitz chess" affairs, which I don't really like at all. You know what I mean, you have 5 minutes to make ALL of your moves.
I am certainly not the chess player that I was in my teens, but I'm happy to have a go at it. BTW, I beat a Master in a tournament once! He was so absolutely pissed you couldn't believe it. He got up in a huff, looked me in the eye and said, "You didn't play very well you know." I said, "But I won."
In another tournament in South Jersey, I played another Master superbly, to the point where there were many people viewing our game. I had a pawn that I was advancing, now at the sixth rank. I was clearly playing over my head, and the game had gone now for nearly 4 hours (to be honest, the exact details escape me as this was about 15 years ago, but it was a loooooong game!). Anyway, in a moment of brain-deadness, I advanced that pawn unprotected to the 7th rank. Everybody, and I do mean everybody, sighed at once!! I was very disappointed and in a move or two later had to resign.
7. KuligintheHooligan - 2/12/2000 3:50:53 PM
Ohio, I was a member of the USCF back in the 80s, with a rating in the 1900s. I won the "Greater South Jersey Open" in my category, but since the early 80s haven't played tournament chess at all. Well, actually, here in Windhoek I've played in some "tournaments," one-day "blitz chess" affairs, which I don't really like at all. You know what I mean, you have 5 minutes to make ALL of your moves.
I am certainly not the chess player that I was in my teens, but I'm happy to have a go at it. BTW, I beat a Master in a tournament once! He was so absolutely pissed you couldn't believe it. He got up in a huff, looked me in the eye and said, "You didn't play very well you know." I said, "But I won."
In another tournament in South Jersey, I played another Master superbly, to the point where there were many people viewing our game. I had a pawn that I was advancing, now at the sixth rank. I was clearly playing over my head, and the game had gone now for nearly 4 hours (to be honest, the exact details escape me as this was about 15 years ago, but it was a loooooong game!). Anyway, in a moment of brain-deadness, I advanced that pawn unprotected to the 7th rank. Everybody, and I do mean everybody, sighed at once!! I was very disappointed and in a move or two later had to resign.
8. KuligintheHooligan - 2/12/2000 3:54:16 PM
Ohio, I was a member of the USCF back in the 80s, with a rating in the 1900s. I won the "Greater South Jersey Open" in my category, but since the early 80s haven't played tournament chess at all. Well, actually, here in Windhoek I've played in some "tournaments," one-day "blitz chess" affairs, which I don't really like at all. You know what I mean, you have 5 minutes to make ALL of your moves.
I am certainly not the chess player that I was in my teens, but I'm happy to have a go at it. BTW, I beat a Master in a tournament once! He was so absolutely pissed you couldn't believe it. He got up in a huff, looked me in the eye and said, "You didn't play very well you know." I said, "But I won."
In another tournament in South Jersey, I played another Master superbly, to the point where there were many people viewing our game. I had a pawn that I was advancing, now at the sixth rank. I was clearly playing over my head, and the game had gone now for nearly 4 hours (to be honest, the exact details escape me as this was about 15 years ago, but it was a loooooong game!). Anyway, in a moment of brain-deadness, I advanced that pawn unprotected to the 7th rank. Everybody, and I do mean everybody, sighed at once!! I was very disappointed and in a move or two later had to resign.
9. Angel-Five - 2/12/2000 5:08:36 PM
Is Murray Head going to do a soundtrack for this, too?
10. Jonesy - 2/12/2000 8:33:15 PM
Hello all, I haven't been able to play for a long time, and have usually been a punching bag for better players, but I love the game, and look forward to learning from you.
11. cmboyce - 2/13/2000 1:23:08 AM
I am a virtual neophyte, though, oddly, I do have tournament experience. Some years ago, I went to visit a friend in NH for a long weekend, arriving Thurs. evening. He said, "Oh shit, I forgot. I can't have you up here this weekend; I have a tournament coming up, and I have to study til Friday night and then play on Saturday and Sunday." I queried studying, and he explained about openings. He also described the tournament, in which a number of kids he taught chess to would be playing, in a beginners' category (and some above that). Well, I had played almost no chess, but I knew the rules (all except en passant>i<, actually), so I suggested he show me enough that I wouldn't make a complete asshole of myself, and I'd play in the beginner's section. So I studied a bit and did it. It was a 4-round Swiss (I think it's called), and I lost three straight (the first to the six-year-old who subsequently won the division) before beating a twelve-year-old who was as scatterbrained as I.
I accordingly received a ranking. I think it was 960. But I've played very little since, and most of it in such states of intoxication as to render the game little more than a venue for conversation.
So I don't think I can offer much here, but I look forward to lurking.
12. cmboyce - 2/13/2000 1:23:39 AM
13. cmboyce - 2/13/2000 1:24:13 AM
Sorry 'bout that.
14. OhioSTOPAS - 2/13/2000 7:08:51 AM
What do you think about the presentation of chess - and chessplayers - in movies and television? It is surprising to me how often there are inaccurate details about chess, such as setting up the board wrong. It's not like it would be expensive to get technical advice from a chessplayer! (Certainly less expensive than the medical consultants E.R. must hire to make sure that Dr. Benton doesn't cut into a patient's leg after announcing he will remove the spleen!)
15. KuligintheHooligan - 2/13/2000 1:51:57 PM
Ohio, I apologize for the triple post earlier. Could you possibly remove two of them?
As for chess players in movies, I don't recall seeing too many of them.
On a visit to Copenhagen about 6 years ago, my friend and I were walking down the main thoroughfare/tourist trap of that city (I can't recall the name of the street although it was a long name of somebody) and there was a guy playing chess for money. He was good and beat everybody he played (at least while I watched him). I considered playing him but chose not to.
On the return, there he still was so I decided to have at him. He was playing "speed chess" with everybody, 5 minutes per side, something I really dislike. But I asked him if he would give us each 10 minutes per side instead, and we'd double the winner's fee. He agreed.
I played a beautiful game for me and beat him. He was very disappointed and asked for a rematch. I figured I'd leave "while I was on top," but I gave him the winner's fee anyway. It was an enjoyable game.
16. cmboyce - 2/13/2000 3:01:57 PM
There are lots of such street players in NY. The friend whom I mentioned above, who was ranked 1800 and something at this time (he died a few years later, probably with the same ranking), used to play them some. He told me he could beat most of them, but there was one guy at Times Square who had beaten him several times, while playing (as was his "gimmick", hohoho) three games at once. Against tourists for the most part, granted, but still...
17. Uzmakk - 2/13/2000 5:38:15 PM
I mentioned a good while ago that I play go, the oriental equivalent of chess.
18. hashke - 2/13/2000 6:58:27 PM
When by luck I encounter a player of both chess and pool, we go for one move chess, then one shot pool, then another move chess -- until finished, this all colorfully laced with The Drink.
19. cmboyce - 2/14/2000 10:08:58 AM
Haha. That's great, Hashke! I can imagine, on the 19th game of 8-ball, calling "8-ball in Queen's Bishop 7."
20. Al D - 2/14/2000 8:18:51 PM
How would one go about getting a game started? I have about an hour, which is long enough for me.
21. OhioSTOPAS - 2/15/2000 6:40:54 AM
Can anyone help Al out with a reference to an on-line chess site?
22. OhioSTOPAS - 2/15/2000 6:42:25 AM
Are all of the chessplaying Moties men?
Any theories to explain why chess is a virtually all-male activity?
23. FXMuckermind - 2/15/2000 6:59:37 PM
Because it is a game of war.
24. FXMuckermind - 2/15/2000 7:02:04 PM
Chess Online
The best online gaming place. Anyone who wants to play there are around 4000 people online right now in the Chess boards alone.
25. CalGal - 2/15/2000 7:07:55 PM
I associate chess with math and spatial thinking. I have no idea whether that's an accurate association, so it could be that all this time I've been figuring chess as the domain of men for the wrong reasons.
Maybe they just like chasing the all-powerful Queen* more than women do.
*Cellar--insert the punchline of your choice
26. hashke - 2/15/2000 7:20:10 PM
FX:
Have you played chess on this site? If so, does it work okay? Any special downloading or equipment needed?
I suppose, that with your moniker, FX, you play in the express lane.
27. FXMuckermind - 2/15/2000 7:27:40 PM
Blitz Chess only babe.
Yes it works great. Java Applet. Any browser. Been playing for years.
Very very popular place. I enjoy 3 minute Blitz, and watching as well.
Games are rated or un-rated.
28. hashke - 2/15/2000 7:33:57 PM
Thanks, FX. I'll check it out.
29. Al D - 2/15/2000 8:10:30 PM
FX
Thanks for the link. I joined as poipual2000, got a game going. I used the queen pawn opening, and about 6 moves later with only the exchange of a pawn, it said game over black wins. I guess I'll stick to computer chess.
30. RosettaStone - 2/15/2000 8:21:01 PM
I have Chess for Kids and love it.
Especially the music!
31. FXMuckermind - 2/15/2000 10:58:42 PM
Al D
I'm not sure what you are talking about. You can only play against other people on Yahoo. If you are in a timed game then you win on points. Otherwise its just like real chess, in that you decide with your opponent what the conditions are for a game.
32. RosettaStone - 2/15/2000 11:27:47 PM
FX: You're acting normal tonight.
Happy to read you.
33. Al D - 2/16/2000 8:30:30 PM
FX
I didn't understand it either. But that is exactly what happened.
34. OhioSTOPAS - 2/17/2000 6:44:44 AM
Chess and women (msg #25): Even if, as has been theorized, men generally are more likely to have an aptitude for mathematics than women, that doesn't go nearly far enough to explain the near-total absence of girls and women from competitive chess.
I once read a Freudian explanation of the appeal of chess: checkmating the opposing king is the playing out of the Oedipal complex, fearing checkmate of your own king is castration anxiety. This may be all bullshit, but it might explain the appeal of the game to men, or at least the thrill of victory and dread of losing that drives chessplayers to excel.
35. OhioSTOPAS - 2/17/2000 6:45:18 AM
(This too might call for a Cellar Door punchline!)
36. PincherMartin - 2/17/2000 11:46:08 AM
Two questions:
1) When does the official Mote Speed Chess Tournament start?
and
2) Who are the five greatest chess players in history?
37. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 12:04:16 PM
I was a chess buff when younger, but don't keep up anymore. Here is my not-very-expert opinion:
Paul Morphy, Alexander Alekhine, Bobby Fischer, Jose Capablanca, and Gary Kasparov.
38. PincherMartin - 2/17/2000 12:07:03 PM
In that order?
39. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 12:09:03 PM
I also think chess is like most more athletic sports, that the quality of play improves so much and today's players build on their predecessors, so that in actuality the five greatest players are probably all playing now.
But that's not a very interesting way of looking at these sort of lists.
40. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 12:10:53 PM
No, Pincher. Just the order they came to me. I remember really admiring the biography of Morphy when I was into chess, so he's probably my childhood favorite.
Given my comments above, you'd probably have to list them in reverse chronology if you wanted to compare their talents.
41. PincherMartin - 2/17/2000 12:11:33 PM
But that's not a very interesting way of looking at these sort of lists.
I agree. Let's make it which five chess players in history have shown the greatest distance from their contemporaries in talent?
42. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 12:12:20 PM
That's a much better way, IMO, Pincher.
43. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 12:15:07 PM
Here's a good link on some great players.
44. RosettaStone - 2/17/2000 12:21:23 PM
I think the movie "Searching for Bobby Fischer" is probably one of the best things that could have happened to the gamet. Even better than IBM's Big Blue computer chess contest.
After seeing the film, my son, who was taking Saturday morning lessons at the Washington's Chess Club (that name might have changed), was really into it.
CD-ROM chess games are also a lot of fun to play--especially when you can change sides in the middle of a game.
45. PincherMartin - 2/17/2000 12:21:49 PM
Great link, Indy!
From the section on Capablanca:
Capablanca refused to study chess and he never read chess books or studied chess openings. Unbelievably, he became the World Champion in spite of this. He therefore was obviously the greatest natural chess player that ever lived.
46. PincherMartin - 2/17/2000 12:28:51 PM
Heading the section on Aron Niemzowitsch is a quote from his book on chess:
"The passed Pawn is a criminal, who should be kept under lock and key. Mild measures, such as police surveillance, are not sufficient. The passed Pawn has a lust to expand."
47. hashke - 2/17/2000 2:11:35 PM
Is there a better chess site than yahoo? I've tried it and find it an annoying place to try to play. The server shuts down in the middle of a game, placards fly up proclaiming one has lost the game even near the beginning of a session with no loss in sight. One waits and waits for an opponent. It is extremely frustrating.
What is the best online chess site?
48. Indiana Jones - 2/17/2000 2:17:15 PM
hashke:
Try this site. I just found it, and it looks pretty interesting.
Click on the "Play chess online" to get into a game. I've already been invited twice and have been there about 10 seconds.
49. FXMuckermind - 2/17/2000 2:57:24 PM
Thats a pretty good site. Thanks.
50. FXMuckermind - 2/17/2000 2:58:04 PM
that is a good site
51. FXMuckermind - 2/17/2000 2:58:23 PM
?
52. hashke - 2/17/2000 3:34:21 PM
Thanks Indian Jones. I'll try it.
I played a game at Yahoo this morning, was trouncing my opponent and clock ran out -- up came 'you lost' placard. No bueno!
53. SpenceMirrlees - 2/22/2000 3:21:58 AM
Fun facts (aka useless trivia) about chess:
According to the best estimates of each, there are more possible games of chess than there are atoms in the universe -- by a rather wide margin. That's according to Nobel Prize winner Herbert Simon in Handbook of Game Theory, volume 1.
Exactly one of the following is true of chess: either white can guarantee a win, or black can guarantee a win, or both can guarantee a draw. That's by using one single sequence of moves. The problem (or the saving grace, depending on how you feel about chess) is that no one knows what that sequence of moves is...for reasons pertaining to the first fun fact above.
In other words, assuming both players want to win, there is a right way to play chess, in the same sense that there is a right way to play tic tac toe. The mathematical structure of the games is basically the same -- chess is just a lot bigger. That result is a special case of the very first theorem ever proved in game theory.
54. stostosto - 2/22/2000 5:44:00 AM
I love chess. Unfortunately chess doesn't love me back.
55. PincherMartin - 2/23/2000 2:11:23 PM
Ohio --
We want a speed chess tournament.
56. cmboyce - 2/23/2000 3:04:28 PM
Message # 54
Hahaha. Sto, I feel exactly the same way. I love to play, but I never get good enough to give any of my friends a real game, so I don't play much. I don't really have great focus; I'd rather drift around a problem; I don't mind drudgery, but I want to be able to let it accumulate until something happens. This is not good technique at the chess board. I'll be contemplating the niceties of one situation and make a move that loses a piece to an enemy in a different location (that I had seen earlier in contemplating a different situation but had forgotten about! Drives me wild!)
57. arkymalarky - 2/23/2000 7:09:27 PM
I know nothing about chess, really, and I've played five games with my husband and beaten him every time, so he won't play with me any more. No one else around is interested, though my daughter played and beat me a while back. I thought the posts on chess seeming to be a men's game were interesting. I don't know if I could get good at it or not, and I don't know that I'll have the opportunity to find out. I guess I should try to get some students at school interested in it, maybe forming a chess club or something, but I don't have time to do everything I'm doing at work now without adding something else.
I'm stupid about the internet so excuse me if this question is ridiculous, but is there any way for someone to watch a chess game played by two other people on the net?
58. hashke - 2/24/2000 1:07:24 AM
arky:
Some sites have observer accessibility. Try games.yahoo.com
59. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 8:58:26 AM
Ohio,
I am not sure if you've been following the discussion in New Threads, but there has been some talk of starting a bridge thread, with me as host. The suggestion has been made to combine it with chess into a games thread, with us co-hosting. I am willing to do either that or a separate thread. What is your preference? Probably you should reply in New Threads, so wabbit sees it.
60. stostosto - 2/24/2000 9:08:33 AM
e2-e4.
61. stostosto - 2/24/2000 9:11:03 AM
cm
I'll be contemplating the niceties of one situation and make a move that loses a piece to an enemy in a different location (that I had seen earlier in contemplating a different situation but had forgotten about! Drives me wild!)
It's such a bitch, ain't it. And you can't even plead unlucky. Arrrgh!
62. stostosto - 2/24/2000 9:15:23 AM
1. e2-e4 e7-e5
Translation:
"Hello" "Howdy"
63. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:29:11 PM
Because (I think) Ohio said he wouldn't mind bridge-talk in his Chess thread, let me explain bridge to non-players who may be interested.
Bridge was invented by an aristocratic American dilletante in the 1920's as a diversion. He invented the best card game in history. Well, a tie with poker.
The game is simple: It's Spades (in spades, you must follow the suit led, but you can throw a spade-- a TRUMP-- when you're out of the suit led; Trumps always win, except to a higher trump) with three innovations:
1) You play in partnerships. North-SOuth plays as a partnership against East-West.
2) Spades aren't necessarily trump. Trump is established by competitive bidding. Clubs could be trump, Diamonds could be trump, Hearts could be Trump, or, yes, Spades could be Trump. And No Trump could be the game-- no trump at all.
3) Points are involved. You don't need to know exactly how many points you get for whatever thing. Obviously, when you do good, you get points; when you do badly, your opponents get points; when you do VERY good, you get a LOT of points, and when you do VERY badly, your opponents get A LOT of points.
64. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:34:09 PM
Here's how bidding works:
Each partnership is trying to win a GAME. Winning two games equals a Rubber (a "match" in tennis" terms).
How do you win a game? By bidding a contract and making that contract.
To win a game, you must win 100 points. Different contracts in different suits have different point values:
Clubs and Diamonds (the "Minor" suits) are worth 20 points per trick. Thus, you need to bid (and make) 5 Clubs or 5 Diamonds to win a 100-point game.
Wait, wait, wait-- five tricks? That sounds pretty easy out of 13 tricks, right? Well, bridge works like this: when you bid, your FIRST SIX tricks are implied. So when you bid ONE CLub, you're really saying you can win seven tricks (six implied, one bid). When you bid Three Spades, you're saying you can win NINE tricks (six plus three).
So, to win game in one trick with clubs, you need to win ELEVEN tricks--5 Clubs equals eleven tricks (6 implied plus 5 bid).
That's just a convention.
65. CalGal - 2/24/2000 4:35:03 PM
History (and Ancestry) of Bridge
Picked off at random with a search. Is it accurate?
66. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:37:04 PM
Tricks in hearts and spades are worth THIRTY points per bid trick. So three spades gets you 90 points; four spades gets you 120 points, and that's a game.
Hearts and Spades therefore require one less trick to win game--four spades wins a game, which is ten tricks, one less than the number needed for clubs or diamonds. That's why Hearts and Spades are called the "major" suits.
Finally, a game can be played in NO TRUMP. No trump at all. The first bid trick in No Trump is worth 40 points; the second and third are worth 30 each. Thus, you can take a game a No Trump by bidding THREE No Trump-- only NINE tricks, one less than needed for game in hearts or spades. But No Trump is tricky to play; that's why you need only nine tricks.
67. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:41:32 PM
Okay. On to bidding.
When you play Bridge, you look at your cards. You determine how strong your cards are. (More on that later; that's a separate topic.)
But let's say you have moderately strong cards, and a bunch of spades.
You might bid "One Spade" to open bidding. Your partner will then make a bid, or pass, depending on his cards. Meanwhile, your opponents might *also* be bidding.
But who wins bidding?
Here's how it works: CLubs are the lowest-ranked suit. Then comes diamonds, then hearts, then spades. Then No Trump. Higher numbers beat lower numbers.
So a bid of "Three Spades" beats a bid of "Two spades." And a bid of "One Spade" beats a bid of "One Diamond"-- though both are on the one-level, spades are higher-ranked than diamonds.
No Trump is highest rank at all. So "One No Trump" beats "One Spade."
As bidding goes around, you can only bid HIGHER than the last bid.
68. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:47:09 PM
So a round of bidding might go like this:
South: Pass. (Meaning: My cards are not strong enough to open.)
East: One Diamond. (Meaning: My cards ARE strong enough to open bidding, and I'd like to be in Diamonds. What say you, Partner?)
North: One Spade. (My cards are strong, too, and I want to be in spades.)
West: Two Hearts. (Note West can't bid ONE heart-- because One Spade was already bid, and Spades are higher ranked than hearts. The next-higher heart bid is Two hearts. By Bidding Two hearts, West is telling his partner his cards are strong enough to SUPPORT an strong hand, but that he doesn't like diamonds especially, and that he's got a good number of hearts.)
South: Pass. (South refuses to respond to his partner. This means: My cards suck. We shouldn't be playing. Let them play.)
East: Three Hearts. (Okay, partner, hearts sort of work for me. Shall we take this to FOUR hearts and take the game, or stop here?)
North: Pass. (I'm done. My partner's cards suck.)
West: Pass. (Three hearts is all I'm comfortable with. We end it here.)
South: Pass.
And that concludes bidding, since everyone passes after the Three Hearts bid.
69. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:49:08 PM
Note that not every round is played at game level-- you don't HAVE TO go to four hearts. You can just try to win three hearts-- which means you get 90 points if you make the contract.
That means the next round, you can just bid one diamond or one heart or whatever-- and added to the ninety points you alread have, then you can win game.
This is called a "partial game." You just get a fraction of the points you need for game; that way, your next round you can win game with a low-bid contract.
70. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:53:26 PM
After the three heart bid, you just play. SInce West bid hearts first, he's the one PLAYING the hand. The man to the left of West (south, I think) leads, and the game begins.
With one twist. East won't be playing this game; his partner, West, who bid hearts first, will be playing for him. As soon as South leads, East lays his cards on the table, for all to see. For both his partner and his opponents to see.
And then West-- who's playing-- plays BOTH hands. He makes all decisions about which cards to play out of the "Dummy" East hand (that's what the laid-down hand is called, "Dummy"). East is just a spectator.
East wishes his partner good luck and goes to get a beer.
71. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 4:55:44 PM
In a nutshell, that's how it works.
There are bidding conventions (like, "How strong should my hand be to open? To respond to Partner's opening? To go to Game?") and there are twists (you get lots and lots of points for "Slam" bids-- bidding six or seven, which means you must make twelve or thrirteen (all) tricks), and different amounts of points for different stuff.
But that's all best addressed with examples, which I obviously can't provide.
72. ChristinO - 2/24/2000 4:57:43 PM
Open to questions yet?
73. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 4:59:39 PM
Thanks, Ace, for starting on bridge.
A couple of corrections -- as CalGal's site indicates, bridge derived from a old English game called Whist. It was modified somewhat in Russia, where it took the name biritch. Tolstoy's stories often have people playing biritch; I am not certain whether the translator of the versions I read changed some of the terms to bridge equivalents. Biritch is similar to a varient called auction bridge, which largely differs from the type of bridge played around the world (contract bridge) in that in auction bridge one receives game and slam bonuses regardless of whether one bid them, creating an incentive for the auction to end at as low a level as possible.
Bridge crossed the ocean to the US around 1900. Contract bridge rules were created by Harold Vanderbilt on a sea cruise in 1925. It caught on enormously, and there were several famous bridge matches in the '30's which were front page news, mostly involving Eli and Josephine Culbertson. After WWII, bridge methods in the US were simplified and popularized by Charles Goren. Other countries went in different directions, leading to the creation of a British Standard bidding system called Acol and a somewhat artificial (in that some bids do not indicate a desire to play in that suit) system created by the Italian Squadra Azzura (Blue Team), which dominated international competition from the mid 50's until the mid 70's, which system was simplified into the Precision system by Taiwanese shipping magnate C.C. Wei.
74. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:01:26 PM
Oh, and there's cool bids like: "Double" and "Redouble."
When you think that your opponents have bid to high and cannot make the contract they've bid, you might bid, "Double." That means that they're still playing, but you're now increasing the stakes-- you're saying, "Fuck you, you can't make this contract, and we're gonna cream you, and win a lot of points for breaking your contract."
If the partnership who bid the contract thinks you're wrong, and thinks they CAN make the contract, they might bid "Redouble" to your "Double." "Redouble" means: "No, Fuck YOU, chum, we're gonna make this, and I'm increasing the stakes EVEN HIGHER, and we'll se whose balls are bigger."
75. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:01:46 PM
Also, Ace, there are 2 higher levels than game: slam and grand slam.
Slam involves bidding and making a contract in any suit or no trump at the 6 level (i.e., winning 12 out of the 13 tricks). Grand slam involves bidding and making a contract in any suit or no trump at the 7 level (winning all 13 tricks).
ChristinO, start your questions.
76. OhioSTOPAS - 2/24/2000 5:03:35 PM
A belated welcome to the bridge players!
It's okay with me if the title of the thread is changed to "Chess and Other Games". (or "Chess and Lesser Games"?)
77. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:04:08 PM
"Contract bridge rules were created by Harold Vanderbilt on a sea cruise in 1925."
Of course there are forerunners, but I credit this American dilettante with inventing the game of *Contract* Bridge. And it's the "contract" part which makes it fun.
78. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:05:12 PM
Dan-- I covered Slams in in Post 71, briefly. That can sort of wait.
79. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:07:25 PM
Ohio:
You really don't have to change the title. But if you do, change it to Chess (and Bridge) because, at the moment, at least, people should see we're explaining Bridge.
80. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:08:11 PM
Ohio,
Chess and Bridge or Games People Play would be better.
Additional elements that Ace didn't mention:
Bridge is played with a standard 52 card deck. Aces are high, deuces are low. There are 4 players, each of whom are dealt 13 cards at the beginning of each hand.
BTW, I tend to start by comparing bridge to pinocle, which is closer than spades. The main differences are that bridge bidding names the trump suit as well as the level, that there is no concept like meld, that the person who set the level of bidding does not lead and an opponent does instead and that one is not forced to play the trump suit in bridge if one has no cards in the suit led.
81. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:10:07 PM
A good site to learn about bridge is site.
82. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:12:03 PM
Christin:
Well... hmmmmm... how to compare Bridge to Hearts?
Well, they're *a bit* similar, in that each man is dealt 13 cards. The suit led MUST be followed, UNLESS you're out of that suit, in which case you can throw ANY Card you like (you MAY throw trump, if you like; but you don't have to: You can get rid of other cards).
In Bridge, you try to WIN tricks, not lose them as in hearts (except for Shootin' the Moon).
In Bridge, points are GOOD. You want points. You get points by winning tricks, mostly, or by preventing opponents for making their bid contract.
83. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:13:02 PM
Alternatively, a good simple bridge book which is widely available at bookstores is Alfred Sheinwold's Five Weeks to Winning Bridge. It teaches quite a lot in 35 lessons, which would take about 1 hour each. I will bring my copy in starting tomorrow, and suggest that we make it Mote Standard, at least for now.
84. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:14:30 PM
Dan:
Is that necessary?
I don't want to make it seem like *work*. I learned Bridge entirely verbally; so can everyone else.
Those who get STOKED about the game are encoraged to pick up a book and get really good, but it's simply not necessary.
85. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:17:09 PM
Everything can be learned by playing, and by someone explaining simple rules at first.
86. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:18:29 PM
Ace,
It would probably help to have a common source, although I may try to condense it and do a lesson from it per day. It's hard to learn bridge verbally without cards in front of you. It's also hard to teach all the elements of either bidding or play from memory; either you learn by doing (and it takes a lot of doing) or you need a book.
87. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:19:47 PM
Dan:
Yes, but on Yahoo, you can play AND chit-chat, sending messages back and forth, explaining stuff.
It duplicates the experience of learning while playing.
88. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:20:31 PM
How are either of these games to be played in this format?
89. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:22:00 PM
I see, at 87. Yahoo? Can one specify one's tablemates? Got a link?
90. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:22:07 PM
cm:
They can't be, of course.
Both Chess and Bridge can be played on Yahoo. It's free, you can set up private tables where only invitees can come, etc.
This format, such as it is, is useful for kibbitzing, stoking interest, and finding opponents. But of course we can't play here.
Well, we could play CHESS, if you like that e2-24 stuff.
91. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:23:25 PM
Yahoo:
www.yahoo.com
At the top of the first page is a horizontal menu of stuff. One item is GAMES. Click on it.
You'll have to sign-up for yahoo. All you have to do is provide a web-address, a log-on name, and password. They you're all set.
92. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:24:28 PM
Ace, that sounds fine. I'd rather play bridge than chess; at least I'm more at home with bridge. And I like that one can talk, too. It does ease learning, certainly, at any level, and it's more fun that way, too. One has bridge parties; chess parties are an oddity if not an oxymoron.
93. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:25:03 PM
How does one arrange a table?
94. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:26:46 PM
Everyone:
Everyone who's interested in Bridge should sign up for Yahoo. At some point you'll have to tell us your Yahoo name, so we know who you are when we play.
When we have enough people to play (four), we can go over to yahoo. Someone (maybe me) will set up a private table. Everyone else will just go to the yahoo bridge room and wait until you get an invitation from me. When you get an invitation, click YES, and you'll be brought to my table.
95. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:27:02 PM
Simple rules for evaluating your hand:
1. Sort your hand into suits, and within suits from highest to lowest.
2. Count 4 points for each Ace, 3 for each King, 2 for each Queen, and 1 for each Jack. The total of these points is your high card points (HCP). There are a total of 40 high card points in the hands of all 4 players.
3. Count additional points for having suits with less than 3 cards in them as follows: 3 points for no cards in a suit (void), 2 points for 1 card in a suit (singleton), and 1 point for 2 cards in a suit (doubleton).
4. If one suit is being counted both for HCP and for shortness, you generally need to re-evaluate downwards, unless there is an Ace or doubleton King in the suit. Subtract 1 point from the total from that suit (i.e., a suit with a singleton King is worth 3 points for the King + 2 points for the singleton - 1 point for the duplication, for a total of 4 points)
5. Generally you need at least 13 points to open the bidding.
96. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:29:28 PM
For example, I just created a private table. Took three seconds.
Now only people I invite can come to the table.
I can see a list of who's available at my left. To be on this list, you have to be in the Yahoo Bridge Game room. Then I can click on your name and invite you, and you can come (or will be automatically brought to my table; not sure precisely how it works, but everything's pretty simple, it looks like).
97. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:31:32 PM
Netscape also had (last I checked) a bridge game.
For more advanced players, there's a few members-only clubs, most notably OKBridge (www.okbridge.com). It charges around $100 per year and has on-line tournaments, with different skill levels.
98. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:31:36 PM
"4. If one suit is being counted both for HCP and for shortness, you generally need to re-evaluate downwards, unless there is an Ace or doubleton King in the suit. Subtract 1 point from the total from that suit (i.e., a suit with a singleton King is worth 3 points for the King + 2 points for the singleton - 1 point for the duplication, for a total of 4 points)"
See, Dan, I think this is going to far-- at first. This makes it look complex, when it's mostly common sense.
I'd stay away from these intermediate-level refinements at first.
You're right, of course-- but stick to the basics, please. You don't want to scare people.
99. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:33:26 PM
In other words: People will figure out there's not much chance a singleton queen will win, soon enough.
100. ChristinO - 2/24/2000 5:36:44 PM
Sorry I got side-tracked.
dumb question but why is South to the left of West? and does the game go counter clockwise like in hearts?
101. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:36:52 PM
Well, I'm registered at Yahoo. Which of those myriad of "Lounges" does one lounge in while awaiting one's tablemates?
I must be out of here around 6 (EST), but I'll be back by 9... any chance of a rubber or two sometime around then?
102. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:38:30 PM
cm... well, I'm in the Beginner's Lounge, table one, under the name Kevin_Blackthorne (you can see me at bottom).
103. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:39:18 PM
South is not to the left of West. Rahter, vice versa. Play goes clockwise.
104. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:40:17 PM
ChristinO,
South usually isn't to the left of West. You are sitting at a table and the directions are as you see them on a compass. The game proceeds clockwise (both in bidding and play).
I registered at Yahoo as well. I'm dantheman1964 (dantheman was taken)
105. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:40:43 PM
dumb question but why is South to the left of West? and does the game go counter clockwise like in hearts?
It goes counter-clockwise.
As for the "South to the left of West"-- I said, "I think." The positions are arranged as on a compass.
..... N
..W.......... E
.......S
Ooops. I got west and east confused. I always do that.
106. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:41:21 PM
Ace, as I say, there's no point in my starting now, unless we just want to do a few hands to demonstrate the process. But at nine?
107. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:42:19 PM
Anybody? We need a FOURTH. Got three.
108. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 5:42:46 PM
I can't stay long anyway...
109. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:43:13 PM
Play goes clockwise! South: 1S; West: pass; North 2S; East: pass; South: 4S... pass, pass, pass.
110. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:43:35 PM
Sure. Maybe at Nine, if I'm around.
111. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 5:44:03 PM
OK. I'm in. See you in the Beginner's Lounge.
112. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 5:44:43 PM
Cm-- no time for a quick round?
113. ChristinO - 2/24/2000 5:49:09 PM
damn job getting in the way of my fun.
back later I hope.
114. Dantheman - 2/24/2000 6:05:12 PM
I'm taking off for tonight. If there are any bridge questions, post them and I'll answer tomorrow.
115. Al D - 2/24/2000 6:49:59 PM
I'm on Yahoo as poipual2000 and I play bridge. While it is true the game is simple, it is also very complicated on a higher level. All one really needs to know is the level of his partner. For example, If you played conventions such as Stayman, Blackwood, Drury over a weak opening, negative doubles, weak two bids, five card majors,I would have no trouble communicating with you. If you did not play any conventions, just simple American Standard, I would have no problem with that either. A partnership is just communication, so you did to talk the same language. It is a lot better than chess, because if you do poorly, you just blame your partner. Chess losses can humiliate one.
116. cmboyce - 2/24/2000 6:55:47 PM
Jesus, that's a hard way to play cards. But I hope I'll get used to it. It was fun, when it wasn't frustrating. I'll be back in a few hours. I'd love to go on.
117. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 7:10:03 PM
Mote Bridge challenge one goes to CMboyce and Ace, who crush Cat-in-the-Hat and Dantheman (with occasional changing partners) 3220 to 840 points.
118. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 7:12:23 PM
kibbitzing included "Are you fucking high, you moron?" and "Nice bidding, dipshit."
Good fun for all.
119. AceofSpades - 2/24/2000 7:16:56 PM
Note: That kind of talk was ONLY between experienced players. Newbies will not get the "Are you fucking high?" treatment. Not from me, at least. Cat-in-the-Hat is a whiner, though.
Cmboyce may start a game at 9pm. (I may or may not be there.) If interested, be here at nine.
120. PincherMartin - 2/24/2000 8:25:10 PM
Ohio! How about a Speed Chess Tournament?!?!?!
121. Al D - 2/24/2000 8:33:02 PM
I'm in, if it happens.
122. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 8:26:05 AM
Given that I played only 1 hand and we won 250 points on it, somehow the loss isn't my fault...
123. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 8:47:23 AM
We really did not cover play much in yesterday's commentary so here goes the very simplified version:
The bidding is complete when 3 consecutive people pass (exception -- if the first 3 bids are all pass, the 4th person gets a chance to bid). The team (North-South or East-West) who made the last bid other than pass, double or redouble is the one who has declared the contract (as Ace said yesterday, they are contracting to make the number of tricks they bid plus 6 tricks with the suit they bid as trump (or with no trump suit, if no trump is the bid)). The first person on the declaring team to have bid that suit (or no trump) during the bidding is the declarer. His partner is the dummy (which isn't an insult, it just derives from dumb, meaning unable to speak). The person to the declarer's left (if South is the declarer, then West) makes the opening lead, following which dummy places all of his/her cards face up on the table.
The card led determines the suit of that trick. All players must play a card in the same suit if they have one, and otherwise play any other card, including but not limited to a card in the trump suit. The declarer chooses which card the dummy plays. If no trump cards have been played, then the highest card played in the suit led wins the trick. If one or more trump cards are played, the highest trump card wins the trick. The person who won the prior trick makes the lead for the next trick.
At the end of the hand, each partnership determines the number of tricks they have taken. If the declarer's team has taken at least as many tricks as they contracted for, they are said to have made their contract and receive points accordingly. If the declarer's team has taken less than the number of tricks they have contracted for, their opponents are said to have set the contract and receive points accordingly.
124. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 9:38:09 AM
As yesterday's yahoo session shows, we have several Moties who know how to play the game already. I would like this thread to include discussions for them as well as basic concepts for the newcomers.
For the bridge players who are not starting from scratch, I would like to have an intermediate discussion going on as well. Several questions:
1. What bidding system do you play? I am likely to teach to 5 card majors without 2/1 game force (aka yellow card) simply because it is most prevalent in North America, although if the majority plays something else, I'll comply.
2. What bidding conventions are you already confortable with? Are explanations needed of common conventions such as Blackwood, Stayman, Weak 2 bids?
3. Do you want discussions of less common but useful conventions, such as Jacoby transfers, negative doubles, splinter bids?
4. Do you want me to include discussions of play techniques, such as hold-up plays, end plays, inferential counting?
125. OhioSTOPAS - 2/25/2000 9:44:40 AM
P.M. - I'm game, but how can we do it?
126. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 10:19:49 AM
For Beginners:
In post 95, I discussed how to evaluate one's hand. I am now going to introduce more basic concepts:
Balanced vs. unbalanced hands -- Each player has 13 cards divided among 4 suits. The most even (balanced) distribution of the cards is 4 in one suit and 3 in each of the others (the normal shorthand is to list the number in each suit starting with the suit with the largest number of cards, separated by a dash, so this would be 4-3-3-3). Other balanced distributions are 4-4-3-2 and 5-3-3-2; they share the characteristics of no 6 or longer card suits, no singletons or voids.
Unbalanced hands are better for playing with their long suits as trump. Why? Because of the ability to take tricks by playing trump cards. If you have a longer trump suit than the opponents, you are more likely to take their Aces and Kings with your trump cards. Since bridge is a partnership game, the number of cards that your partner has in your long suits is also important. Therefore, the first few bids are made to figure out which suits each partner has length in, with the goal of playing in a suit in which you and your partner have at least 8 cards in or in no trump if there are none.
Quick tricks -- since an Ace is the highest card in a suit, it will win a trick whenever it is played unless a trump is played or unless it is played on a trick in which the lead was in another suit. Kings will often win a trick; however they are not sure to, since they could be played on the same trick as the Ace. If one partnership has both the Ace and the King, they will usually win 2 tricks with that. One does not count on winning the third trick in a suit by sheer strength as someone is likely to trump that trick. As a result, Queens are less valuable, and Jacks even less so. The simplest means of viewing suits for the number of quick tricks is as follows: (continued)
127. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 10:22:26 AM
Quick tricks (continued)
Ace and King in same suit -- 2 quick tricks
Ace and Queen in same suit -- 1 1/2 quick tricks (since the Ace may be played on the same trick as an opponent's King, leaving the Queen as the highest card remaining)
Ace alone -- 1 quick trick
King and Queen in same suit -- 1 quick trick (since the opponent's Ace will take one, and the other will take the next trick)
King alone -- 1/2 quick trick
In addition to needing 13 points, one should have 2 quick tricks to open the bidding.
128. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 10:49:55 AM
As an exercise for beginners, some hands to determine whether they are sufficient for an opening bid (answers in white):
1. Spades (S) A8 Hearts (H) KQ3 Diamonds (D) 75432 Clubs (C) Q54
Not bidable -- 11 HCP plus 1 for the spade doubleton equals 12 points --too few
2. S A8 H KQ3 D Q7543 C Q54
Bidable --13 HCP plus 1 for the spade doubleton equals 14 points. 2 quick tricks (1 each in spades and hearts)
3. S KJ52 H QJ4 D QJ9 C K86
Not bidable -- 13 HCP, but only 1 quick trick)
4. S AKJ43 H 2 D QJ954 C 84
Bidable -- 11 HCP, plus 2 points for heart singleton, 1 point for club doubleton equals 14, 2 quick tricks
5. S KJ743 H 2 D QJ954 C K4
Not bidable -- 10 HCP, 3 extra points for ditribution, but only 1 quick trick
129. glendajean - 2/25/2000 10:57:50 AM
Just realized that the bridge discussion jumped over here. In DC I played monthly with a "friendly bridge" group. I didn't get serious until I got a computer game. I've played on Yahoo at the beginner level.
As others have said, a very enjoyable game.
Computer bridge (not interactive like yahoo, but a software program where you play against the computer) is good in the sense of getting lots of practice at counting points and practicing bidding.
Where I am terrible is planning strategy once I bid. I wish I was more crafty in laying out my cards.
130. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 11:11:28 AM
glendajean,
Welcome to the bridge discussion.
I will agree that computer programs are excellent ways to practice.
When you say strategy and laying out your cards, are you saying you are interested in learning more about the play of the hand, and not bidding?
131. PincherMartin - 2/25/2000 12:48:16 PM
Ohio --
This is a possible site for a chess tournament. They have a person to contact who will set up a tournament for us. I don't know if it's closed to other players at this site, but that is a must if we're serious about a real Mote Tournmament. I can contact the person once we have sufficient interest for a tournament.
But we need to get a few more players before we even begin to look into it. So far we have...Al, you and me. Once we have at least eight people we can begin to set up the parameters for a tournament.
Is anyone else interested in a chess tournament?
Irv? Sto? Kuligan? FTC? Others?
132. Absensia - 2/25/2000 12:52:23 PM
Dantheman
Thanks for posting this. It is an excellent refresher...I haven't played bridge for a lot of years, but it's all coming back now.
133. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 12:57:00 PM
Welcome Absenia. Do you have any questions? I may try to post another lesson later.
134. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 12:58:48 PM
Sorry about misspelling your name AbsenSia.
135. Absensia - 2/25/2000 12:58:53 PM
Thanks Dantheman. No questions yet, though I know I will..I'm delighted to find people who play bridge. Few I know do anymore.
136. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 1:14:11 PM
Absensia,
Bridge is not as popular as it was 50-60 years ago, when it was still a new game. Still, the American Contract Bridge League has around 200,000 tournament bridge players as members, and there is a substantial group of young players, such as Ace and myself, who are 35 or younger.
When you played, did you play in tournaments or socially?
137. Al D - 2/25/2000 1:21:24 PM
One good hint at bridge is, if you are playing in a suit contract, say 4 spades, count your loosers and see how you might avoid them. For example, if you have three losing diamonds and dummy has only 2, perhaps you can trump one diamond in dummy. If you are playing in no trump, count your winners and see how you can increase them.
138. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 1:22:39 PM
True enough, Al
139. Absensia - 2/25/2000 1:32:20 PM
Dantheman
I mostly played socially though did play some duplicate bridge.
And I MAY have 1.4 master points. : )
140. glendajean - 2/25/2000 2:25:26 PM
Dan -- yes, I'd like to improve my play of hand. That said, I also need to work on my bidding, particularly in the conventions, how to communicate with partner, etc.
141. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 2:36:32 PM
glendajean,
OK, I'll try to work on an intermediate play lesson over the weekend.
Would you like simple card combinations? (e.g., how do you play AJ43 opposite K72 to have the best chance for 3 tricks -- answer Ace first, then low to King, then low towards Jack. You make 3 tricks if Queen is singleton or doubleton, if opponents each have 3 cards in suit (as 4th one is established) or if Queen is to the right of Jack) Lessons on end plays? Any other topics?
What type of bridge did you play, social or duplicate?
Is there any interest in a quick round of 4 hands around 5:00 PM EST on Yahoo?
142. Dantheman - 2/25/2000 5:25:51 PM
It doesn't appear as if we will have a yahoo bridge game this afternoon. If you have any bridge questions, post them here and I'll answer them on Monday.
143. AceofSpades - 2/25/2000 6:13:24 PM
Cat-in-the-Hat/Nostradamus wanted me to pass this on:
www.acbl.com
Some good software, he says, to help you learn bridge quickly, written by a master.
144. AceofSpades - 2/25/2000 6:14:08 PM
Ooops... bad link. Damn.
145. AceofSpades - 2/25/2000 6:15:05 PM
Oh!
It's
www.acbl.ORG
146. stostosto - 2/28/2000 4:53:27 AM
PincherMartin
I am interested in a chess tournament. Sounds like a fun idea. I'll think of how I am going to cope with an embarrassing probable jumbo spot later.
147. PincherMartin - 2/28/2000 1:54:37 PM
Those interested in a Speed Chess Tournament:
Pincher Martin
Ohio Stopas
AlDavis
Stostosto
Those who we haven't heard from yet:
Vic Kuligan
Irv
Hashke
Any others who have an interest, even if no ability, in Chess?
148. SnowOwl - 2/28/2000 1:56:28 PM
Pincher,
I'm interested but my time zone might make it difficult for me to participate.
149. PincherMartin - 2/28/2000 2:08:40 PM
Snowowl --
Not at all. I think there is a significant overlap of time where you can play any of those who are in Europe or North America.
Glad you can join us.
With the addition of Snowowl, that makes it Sto, Ohio, AlD, and myself.
150. Dantheman - 2/28/2000 3:47:12 PM
Beginner's Bridge -- opening bids (please read posts 95, 126-128 first)
Once you have decided to open the bidding, the next question is what bid you should make. Generally, the first choice is to play in a suit in which you and your partner combined have 8 or more cards (a fit), especially if the suit is a major (spades or hearts). The minor suits (diamonds and clubs) are less favored, because you need to take 11 tricks to make game, as opposed to 10 tricks for a major suit, and 9 tricks for no trump. If there is no fit, or if the fit is in a minor suit, but the hands are balanced, one tries to play in no trump. As a result, bidding balanced hands is very different than unbalanced hands. Although a 5-3-3-2 hand is balanced, if the 5 card suit is a major, then you should treat the hand as unbalanced and open in the 5 card suit, although you will often bid no trump later.
Bidding balanced hands focuses primarily on high card points (HCP), and the following table is your plan unless a fit is found based on your partner's response:
12 to 14 HCP -- open 1 of your longer minor suit or if equal length, the one with more HCP in it (the better minor), intending to bid no trump later
15 to 17 HCP -- open 1 no trump
18 to 20 HCP -- open 1 of the better minor, intending to skip a level of bidding (jump) and bid no trump later
21 to 23 HCP -- open 2 no trump
24 to 26 HCP -- open 2 clubs, and bid 2 no trump on next bid
27 to 29 HCP -- open 2 clubs, and bid 3 no trump on next bid.
151. Dantheman - 2/28/2000 4:02:07 PM
Bidding unbalanced hands focuses primarily on telling partner which suits you hold many cards in, and finding a fit. As a result, bids on unbalanced hands tend to be loosely defined as far as number of points. An opening bid on the 1 level is frequently made with up to around 22 points, while with a stronger hand, you should open 2 clubs, telling your partner you have a very strong hand, and then describe it further.
An opening bid of 1 spade or 1 heart promises at least 5 cards in that suit. An opening bid of 1 club or 1 diamond promises at least 3 cards in that suit (since you could be opening the better minor and preparing to bid no trump later).
Generally, the opening bid should be in your longest suit and in the highest of 2 suits of equal length, although there are excpetions. The major exceptions to the rule are:
If you have 4-4-4-1 distribution, since opening 1 spade or 1 diamond promises 5 cards in the suit, you will need to open the highest minor suit in which you have 4 cards.
If you have a 6 card suit and a 5 card suit and the 6 card suit is immediately below the 5 card suit (e.g., 5 spades and 6 hearts or 5 hearts and 6 diamonds) and the hand has 16 points or less, open the higher ranking suit.
If you have 5 spades and 5 clubs and less than 16 points, open 1 club and bid spades at your next bid.
Any questions?
152. Al D - 2/28/2000 7:03:55 PM
Dantheman
Did I miss something here? Are your posts above for beginers? Why then would you use a 2 club opener when that is a convention of weak two bids. Why would you start beginers with 5 card majors? Obviously, you are a good player and have forgotten how confusing things can be to a true newcomer. As much duplicate as I have played, I still have a hard time seeing the advantage of slavishly following five card majors. But I don't mean to quibble. Your posts are very good.
153. PelleNilsson - 2/29/2000 3:35:53 AM
I'm not in favour of five-card majors. It becomes too restrictive unless one also adopts a weak no trump opening bid.
154. Dantheman - 2/29/2000 8:55:15 AM
Al D/Pelle,
I am teaching ACBL yellow card/5 card majors because that is played by the majority of players in the US. The intent is that when we are done, the beginners will have learned a simple system in wide play, rather than needing to unlearn 4 card majors and strong 2's when they play elsewhere. They will eventually be taught a small number of conventions (Stayman, Blackwood, Gerber, weak 2's) as an integral part of the system.
As to weak no trump, while I personally play it in tournaments as part of a simplified Precision system, I do not intend to teach it here, except possibly as an option for intermediates.
155. Dantheman - 2/29/2000 6:10:48 PM
For Beginners -- Responding to partner's 1 no trump opening bid
If partner opens 1 no trump, he is showing 15-17 HCP and a balanced hand. This means that you should bid and make game if you have at least 10 points. Since he has described his hand so well, you can often immediately imagine what the final contract will be.
If you have 0-7 HCP and are balanced, you should pass. It is better to stop there than to search for a potentially better contract at a higher level.
If you have 0-7 HCP and are unbalanced, you should play the hand in your suit. Since partner is balanced, he should have at least 2 and probably 3 cards in your suit. Bidding 2 diamonds, 2 hearts or 2 spades shows at least 6 cards in that suit (or an unbalanced hand with at least 5 cards in the suit). Partner is expected to pass.
If you have 6 clubs, bid 2 clubs, which partner will respond to as if you bid the Stayman convention (see below) and you will then bid 3 clubs, which he will pass. If you have 4-4-4-1 or 5-4-4-0 with the short suit specifically being clubs, you can bid 2 clubs as the Stayman convention and pass whatever partner bids.
If you have 8 or 9 HCP, game is possible, depending upon how strong partner's hand is. If you do not have a 4 card or longer major suit, bid 2 no trump (even if you are unbalanced). Partner will pass or bid 3 no trump, depending upon the strength of his hand.
If you have a 4 card or longer major suit, bid 2 clubs, the Stayman convention. Partner will bid 2 spades if he has 4 spades, and 2 hearts if he has 4 hearts. If he has 4 cards in each major, he bids 2 spades. If he has no 4 card major, he bids 2 diamonds.
continued
156. Dantheman - 2/29/2000 6:17:06 PM
continued
If partner bids a major in which you have at least 4 cards, bid 3 of that suit. Partner will pass or bid 4 of that suit, depending upon his strength.
If partner bids 2 diamonds or bids a major in which you have do not have 4 cards, bid 2 no trump. Partner can pass or bid 3 no trump depending upon his strength. If he has 4 cards in the other major, he will know you do too and will bid accordingly.
If you have 10 or more points (I am leaving out slam exploration for now), you should bid to game. If you do not have a 4 card or longer major, bid 3 no trump, and partner will pass.
If you have 6 or more cards in your major, bid 4 of that major, and partner will pass.
If you have 5 cards in your major, bid 3 of that major. Partner will bid 4 of that major if he has 3 or more cards in that major, and 3 no trump otherwise.
If you have 4 cards in you major, bid 2 clubs as Stayman. If partner responds in a major in which you have 4 cards, bid 4 of that major. Otherwise, bid 3 no trump.
Any questions?
157. Absensia - 3/1/2000 1:01:04 PM
Dantheman,
Thanks for continuing this...I am reading and re-reading.
158. Dantheman - 3/1/2000 1:03:04 PM
Thank you, Absensia. Rather than a new lesson today, I'll probably post a quiz on what I've written already. I probably won't be able to do it until after 5:00 EST, though.
159. Al D - 3/1/2000 1:21:16 PM
Dantheman
Good stuff. Now if you could teach me how to beat my computer at chess, that would be something. I do O.K. until I get to the fourth level.
160. Dantheman - 3/1/2000 1:22:31 PM
Al D,
Sorry, but I stopped playing chess competitively in high school. Never got much above a 1400 rating, either.
161. Absensia - 3/1/2000 1:50:33 PM
Dantheman,
Thanks for continuing this...I am reading and re-reading.
162. Absensia - 3/1/2000 1:51:37 PM
hmm, not sure how the double post happened. I'll look forward to the quiz, Dantheman...good idea.
163. Dantheman - 3/1/2000 5:24:21 PM
Beginner's Quiz -- What is your opening bid? 164. Dantheman - 3/1/2000 5:36:33 PM Beginner's Quiz -- Responses to partner's 1 no trump opening bid 165. Absensia - 3/2/2000 10:15:31 AM Dantheman, 166. Dantheman - 3/2/2000 10:47:33 AM BTW, answers are in white. 167. Absensia - 3/2/2000 12:46:05 PM # 163, questions 4 & 5..have to review your comments..why spade bid instead of heart? Thanks Dan! 168. Absensia - 3/2/2000 12:54:16 PM er, mean q's 3 and 4 169. Absensia - 3/2/2000 12:57:55 PM Done..thanks Dantheman, 170. Dantheman - 3/2/2000 5:30:41 PM For Beginners -- Responding to an opening bid of 1 of a suit (not no trump) 171. Dantheman - 3/3/2000 12:03:08 PM Responding to an Opening bid of 1 of a suit 172. Dantheman - 3/6/2000 5:20:59 PM Responses to Opening Bid of 1 of a Suit (continued) 173. Dantheman - 3/6/2000 5:32:38 PM Beginner's Quiz 174. Dantheman - 3/6/2000 5:39:44 PM Clarification to post 172: 175. Dantheman - 3/7/2000 3:38:35 PM Beginner's Quiz 176. Absensia - 3/7/2000 4:50:31 PM Thanks Dantheman, 177. Dantheman - 3/7/2000 4:53:51 PM Absensia, 178. Dantheman - 3/8/2000 4:48:44 PM For Beginners -- Rebids 179. Dantheman - 3/9/2000 3:10:44 PM Beginner's Quiz on rebids 180. Dantheman - 3/9/2000 5:08:42 PM Time for another rebid quiz: 181. arkymalarky - 3/9/2000 5:58:19 PM Thanks for taking the time to do this, Dan. When I get a little slot of time spring break (one week from today--YAHOO!!) I hope to follow through it and maybe try to sit in on a beginners game with some folks in Yahoo if anyone has time and I can overcome the fear of being found to be stupid.(g) 182. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 8:50:21 AM arky, 183. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 11:21:11 AM Rebids Quiz, Part Trois 184. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:38:39 PM 185. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:39:15 PM test 186. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:39:52 PM "White" = Play of the Hand at Bridge???? I am rusty as well. 187. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:39:53 PM 188. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:40:49 PM testtest 189. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:41:19 PM 190. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:41:27 PM testtest 191. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:42:12 PM something's screwy 192. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:45:36 PM I think somehow we went to white font too often. Ohio, can you remove posts 184 through 191 at your convenience. Thanks. 193. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:50:29 PM Dantheman - 194. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 1:55:19 PM jexster, 195. jexster - 3/10/2000 1:57:41 PM what are "yellow card"5cm? 196. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 2:08:42 PM jexster, 197. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 3:36:03 PM Another Rebid Quiz 198. ChristinO - 3/10/2000 3:49:30 PM DanTM, 199. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 3:52:56 PM ChristinO, 200. ChristinO - 3/10/2000 4:02:41 PM coming right up. 201. ChristinO - 3/10/2000 4:08:34 PM Transferred from the Cafe: 202. ChristinO - 3/10/2000 4:09:05 PM I think that's all of them. Hope it helps! 203. Dantheman - 3/10/2000 4:09:21 PM Thanks, ChristinO 204. jexster - 3/10/2000 6:19:38 PM Dantheman - 205. jexster - 3/10/2000 10:39:46 PM That MSN bridge is kinda fun..many lousy players just like me! 206. jexster - 3/10/2000 10:43:27 PM Why would you start beginers with 5 card majors? 207. jexster - 3/10/2000 11:37:57 PM Dantheman - 208. Stumbo - 3/11/2000 12:09:20 AM Is it just me, or does this thread need to be renamed? 209. AceofSpades - 3/11/2000 7:52:41 PM 210. jexster - 3/11/2000 8:21:26 PM Yea I could get into it. That MSN site isn't too bad, if you don't have to bid with/against the computer. 211. jexster - 3/11/2000 11:59:53 PM Bridge World the official magazine of the ACBL is on-line. 212. jexster - 3/12/2000 12:12:58 AM Also of interest Bridge World Standard 213. Dantheman - 3/13/2000 9:17:45 AM jexster, 214. jexster - 3/13/2000 4:22:21 PM Tnx Dan. Long dormant synapses coming to life 215. Dantheman - 3/13/2000 5:24:13 PM Another rebid quiz (likely the last, but I'm not up to more teaching today) 216. Dantheman - 3/14/2000 2:44:59 PM For Beginners -- Weak 2 bids 217. Dantheman - 3/15/2000 5:43:32 PM Beginner's Quiz -- Weak 2 openers 218. marshame - 3/15/2000 6:28:45 PM Jexter 219. jexster - 3/15/2000 11:36:44 PM Memory's rusty but now that you mention it, I think that's Michaels Cue isn't it? 2 suited, the other major and an unspecified minor? I actually had that hand when I was screwing around on MSN. I knew that there was something I could do but couldn't put my finger on it. Thanks M. 220. Dantheman - 3/16/2000 8:52:39 AM marshame, jexster, 221. marshame - 3/16/2000 11:49:51 AM Dan the Man 222. marshame - 3/16/2000 11:53:49 AM "Why would you start beginers with 5 card majors? Obviously, you are a good player and have forgotten how confusing things can be to a true newcomer." 223. marshame - 3/16/2000 11:55:02 AM jexter 224. Dantheman - 3/16/2000 12:00:46 PM marshame, 225. Jenerator - 3/16/2000 12:01:00 PM Marshie, 226. marshame - 3/16/2000 12:04:54 PM Dan 227. Dantheman - 3/16/2000 12:10:11 PM marshame, 228. marshame - 3/16/2000 12:27:21 PM If I need a brush up on anything, it's re-bids to Stayman. 229. Dantheman - 3/16/2000 1:06:02 PM marshame, 230. marshame - 3/16/2000 1:08:40 PM Yes Dan the Man, (blushing in proper abashedness), I guess I should read back like ya tole me the first time! 231. Dantheman - 3/16/2000 5:16:24 PM Beginner's Quiz -- Responses to Weak 2 Openings 232. Dantheman - 3/17/2000 1:37:28 PM Beginners Lesson -- 2 clubs opening 233. Dantheman - 3/17/2000 1:53:24 PM Beginner's Quiz 234. Dantheman - 3/20/2000 11:06:46 AM Beginner' Quiz -- Response to 2 club opening 235. Dantheman - 3/23/2000 4:16:20 PM Slam bidding (part 1) 236. Dantheman - 3/23/2000 5:04:21 PM Slam Bidding (part 2) 237. Dantheman - 3/24/2000 1:57:02 PM Slam bidding Quiz #1 238. Dantheman - 3/24/2000 5:18:31 PM Slam bidding Quiz #2 239. Dantheman - 3/28/2000 4:36:26 PM Beginner's Lesson -- Competitive Bidding 240. marshame - 3/28/2000 5:50:59 PM DTM 241. Dantheman - 3/29/2000 5:13:22 PM Beginner's Quiz -- Competitve Bidding 1 242. janjon - 3/31/2000 5:47:14 PM I will be showing that it has been a long time since I've played bridge, but is Blackwood still one of the conventions used a lot? 243. Ubiquitous - 4/2/2000 8:23:36 PM Is chess discussed in this thread at all ? 244. Dantheman - 4/3/2000 9:02:59 AM janjon, 245. Ubiquitous - 4/3/2000 7:44:38 PM Does anyone here play chess ? 246. stostosto - 4/4/2000 4:50:10 PM Yes, Ubi 247. stostosto - 4/4/2000 4:54:15 PM See Message # 147. But it's more than a month old. I must confess I haven't had or taken the time myself to do anything about it. 248. Ubiquitous - 4/4/2000 6:09:17 PM Yes i play. How can we organize a tournament ? 249. arkymalarky - 4/4/2000 9:23:41 PM Ubiquitous, 250. Dantheman - 4/5/2000 9:07:29 AM arky, 251. Dantheman - 4/6/2000 5:58:46 PM I have been really busy at work, and so am just finally posting a short lesson today. Today's lesson is responding to partner's double. BTW, a double where partner expects you to bid your best unbid suit is called a takeout double. 252. AceofSpades - 4/6/2000 6:07:50 PM 253. AceofSpades - 4/6/2000 6:10:29 PM 254. AceofSpades - 4/6/2000 6:21:55 PM 255. ee - 4/6/2000 8:19:16 PM Ace 256. AceofSpades - 4/6/2000 8:28:08 PM 257. ee - 4/6/2000 8:31:40 PM Ace 258. ee - 4/6/2000 8:32:49 PM I took that advice and am now , for the most part, forced to play all four hands. I hardly ever go set. 259. ee - 4/6/2000 8:34:05 PM Let's play chess. I move pawn to King four, or if you like e-4. 260. AceofSpades - 4/6/2000 8:38:52 PM 261. ee - 4/6/2000 8:46:08 PM Great move! I can see that on the 345th move, you will slide the rook pawn forwrd and I am mated! So why prolong the agony. I resign. You are indeed the master. 262. Dantheman - 4/7/2000 8:31:59 AM Ace, 263. KuligintheHooligan - 4/7/2000 10:08:22 AM What did I miss? What do "3 spades" and such rot have to do with chess? Or did they make this a "games" thread as I suggested earlier, but forgot to change the name of the thread? 264. Dantheman - 4/7/2000 4:42:12 PM Bridge Quiz -- Responding to partner's Takeout double 265. janjon - 4/20/2000 1:50:22 PM After having tried the quiz, I can now see why I don't play bridge any more. Rusty puts it mildly. 266. janjon - 5/2/2000 3:51:13 PM After much pondering, I remain of the view that I am rusty when it comes to bridge. 267. Dantheman - 5/12/2000 10:23:27 AM If opponents make a takeout double of partner's opening bid -- 268. Dantheman - 5/12/2000 10:39:01 AM Quiz -- After opponents double partner's opening bid.
1. S K964 H A5 D QJ8 C KJ87
1 spade -- 14 HCP is insufficient to open 1 no trump. Do not count distribution points to determine whether to open in no trump
2. S KJ5 H A7 D KQ532 C K73
1 no trump -- 16 HCP and balanced. It is OK to open in no trump with a 5 card minor suit. If you have a 5 card major suit, open the major
3. S KQJ42 H AQJ964 D 2 C 8
1 heart -- 13 HCP + 4 points for the 2 singletons you are strong enough to open the longer suit, and rebid spades
4. S KJ842 H AQJ964 D 2 C 8
1 spade -- you are not strong enough to bid hearts first
5. S AQ952 H 84 D KQJ63 C 5
1 spade -- higher ranking of the 2 suits of equal length
6. S AQ952 H 84 D 5 C KQJ63
1 club -- the exception because you will always have an easier second bid by opening clubs
1. S 8542 H 7532 D 9753 C 7
2 clubs, intending to pass partner's response to Stayman
2. S 8542 H 7532 D 7 C 9753
pass -- If you bid Stayman, what will you do if partner responds 2 diamonds?
3. S K74 H J85 D AJ8632 C 6
2 no trump -- you can be unbalanced to make this bid so long as you do not have a 4 card or longer major suit
4. S KQ85 H A2 D 843 C 9532
2 clubs (Stayman) -- if partner bids 2 spades, bid 3 spades, inviting game. Otherwise your next bid is 2 no trump
5. S 7 H AQJ854 D Q74 C Q96
4 hearts -- you know you want to be in game, and partner must have at least 2 hearts, so you have at least 8 combined
6. S KQ964 H K32 D Q96 C 75
3 spades -- partner will bid 4 spades or 3 no trump depending upon his spade length
7. S KJ8 H 6 D AQ9754 C J54
3 no trump -- partner will likely have control of the heart suit, and you are better off playing for game by making 9 tricks at no trump than 11 tricks in diamonds
Will work on this tonight or the weekend...work intrudes!
Answer to question #1 in post 163 is wrong. Here is the corrected answer in white:
1 club -- 14 HCP is insufficient to open 1 no trump. Do not count distribution points in deciding whether to open in no trump
It's clear I need to review what you wrote, esp. re no trump..stayman indeed, mutter, mutter.
Several important points before I go into specifics (probably specifics will wait for tomorrow):
1. Unlike a no trump opening, a opening in a suit is very vague. It has a point range of approximately 13-22, and tells little about distribution except the minimal number of cards in that suit (5 in the case of a major, and 3 in the case of a minor). The opening bidder's hand can be balanced or unbalanced, weak or strong. As a result, his partner (the responder) rarely can determine the final contract after the opening bid. The bidding becomes a matter of communication, with each partner telling the other more about his hand each time.
2. Since there is usually so much to tell, there is a rule that any bid by responder in a new suit (i.e., one neither partner previously bid) forces the opener to bid again, and not to pass. Bidding the same suit again (rebidding), raising partner's suit, or bidding no trump generally can be passed. This rule only applies to the responder, and not the opener.
3. Again, your goal is to find an 8 card fit, preferably in a major suit, or failing that, to bid no trump. Once a fit (or lack thereof)is found, the next concern becomes whether game should be bid.
As noted yesterday, the first goal in the bidding is to find an 8 card fit, preferably in a major suit. As a result, if partner opens a major suit, which promises 5 in that suit, and you have 3 or more cards in the suit, you should tell him so by bidding a higher level in his suit (raising).
Some of the cards you hold will be more useful to your partner once you know there is a fit. Distribution is more valuable, as he will be able to trump his losing cards in a suit. Cards with point values (honors) in his suit are also more valuable, as it makes it more likely that he can exhaust the opponents of trump early in the play, preventing them from trumping your tricks. Therefore, you should re-evaluate your hand as follows:
void -- 5 points
singleton -- 3 points
doubleton -- 1 point (still)
add one extra point if you your highest trump is the Queen or the Jack.
If partner opens one of a major suit, the following are your responses:
If you have 6 to 10 points (after re-evaluation) and at least 3 cards in partner's suit, bid 2 of partner's suit.
If you have 13 to 16 points (after re-evaluation) and at least 4 cards in his suit, bid 3 of partner's suit.
If you have 5 to 10 HCP (not re-evaluated) and at least 5 cards in his suit, and have at least 1 void or singleton, bid 4 of partner's suit.
What if you have support, but don't fit any of the above? Usually this means you either have 11 or 12 points or 13 to 16 points but only 3 cards in support. In either case, your first bid is in your longest suit, at the cheapest level. since your bid is forcing, partner has to bid again, and on your next bid, you'll either bid 3 of partner's suit (if you have 11 or 12 points), in which case partner will decide whether to bid game based on his hand, or bid 4 of partner's suit (if you have 13 to 16 points).
If partner has not opened a major suit, or if you don't have 3 card support for the one he opened, you should bid your longest suit, especially if it is a major suit, in the hopes of finding an 8 card fit there. You need at least 6 HCP to respond at the 1 level, and at least 10 HCP to respond at the 2 level. If you have less than 6 HCP, you should pass to let your partner know how weak you are.
You should respond first in your longest suit. If you have 2 suits of equal length, bid the one which increases the bidding less if they are each 4 cards in length (for example if you have 4 spades and 4 diamonds, bid 1 diamond, not 1 spade, in response to a 1 club opening bid, and 1 spade, not 2 diamonds, in response to a 1 heart opening bid). If the suits are each 5 or 6 cards long, bid the higher ranking one first.
If partner opens 1 of a minor suit, and you have no 4 card major to respond in, but you have 5 card or longer support for partner's suit (remember, partner may open a minor suit with only 3 cards in it), raise partner's suit. Follow the requirements for raises to the 2 or 3 level as set forth in post 171, increasing the minimum number of cards in partner's suit to 5. I do not recommend jumping to the 4 or 5 level of partner's minor suit.
Since a response at the 2 level requires 10 HCP or more, if you have 6 to 9 HCP, but cannot raise partner's suit, respond 1 no trump. That bid does not promise balanced distribution.
However, higher level responses in no trump promise balanced distribution, as well as an Ace or King or at least 3 cards, including the Queen or at least 4 cards including the Jack (a stopper) in all suits other than the one partner opened. If you have 13 to 15 HCP, respond 2 no trump, and if you have 16-18 HCP, repsond 3 no trump.
Any questions? Quiz to follow.
Partner opens 1 heart. What are your responses with each of the following hands (answers in white):
1. S 85 H A8743 D K85 C J32
2 hearts. You do not have a singleton or void, so you cannot bid 4 hearts. There is no maximum number of cards in partner's suit for a raise.
2. S K63 H KQ8 D AJ975 C 84
2 diamonds. You cannot bid 3 hearts, as you do not have 4 card support. After partner's next bid, jump to 4 hearts, telling him you have at least 13 points and 3 card support
3. S KQ96 H QJ74 D A5 C J63
3 hearts. Support partner rather than bid spades
4. S 8 H AJ854 D Q863 C 852
4 hearts. This has the singleton that hand 1 lacked.
5. S Q95 H 8 D AJ8532 C 963
1 no trump. You are not strong enough to bid 2 diamonds
6. S KJ83 H 93 D AQ84 C A74
1 spade. You are strong enough to bid 2 no trump, but exploring for an 8 card spade fit is more important. If you bid 2 no trump, partner will likely bid 3 no trump, and you have no way of knowing if 4 spades is a better contract.
Since a response at the 2 level requires 10 HCP or more, if you have 6 to 9 HCP, but cannot raise partner's suit or bid a 4 card or longer suit at the 1 level, respond 1 no trump.
Partner opens 1 club. What are your responses with the following hands (responses in white):
1. S KQ95 H 43 D K975 C J64
1 diamond. Cheaper of 2 4 card suits.
2. S KQ975 H 3 D K9875 C J4
1 spade. Higher ranking of 2 5 or longer card suits.
3. S Q97 H J853 D K3 C Q964
1 heart. Bid a 4 card major suit in preference to 1 no trump (even if balanced) or raising partner's minor suit.
4. S Q97 H J85 D K83 C Q964
1 not trump. Bid 1 no trump if balanced, rather than raise partner's minor suit with 4 card support
5. S AK953 H A8 D KQ65 C 97
1 spade. Bid a 5 card suit before a 4 card one.
6. S A9743 H Q8 D 9652 C 97
1 spade. Note the vast range of hands that fit this bid. Further bids are required to describe the hand and determine the proper contract.
The review was good..boy, am I rusty.
Thanks. I think rebids will start tomorrow.
As problems 5 and 6 of the quiz at post 175 show, after an opening bid and a response, the partners may not know too much about each other's hands. Rebidding is where judgment becomes finer, as the partner communicate more information.
Some general principles first:
1. As stated above (see post 170), a bid by partner in a suit not previously bid forces opener to bid. The reverse is not true.
2. Do not rebid the same values. If you open 1 heart, partner already knows you have 5 of them. Do not rebid them unless you have more (or have no other choice). Raise partner's suit (especially if it's a major suit) if you have at least 3 cards or bid another suit in which you have at least 4 cards or bid no trump if you're balanced and have a stopper in all unbid suits.
3. If you are significantly stronger than you have already indicated, so that you can make game if partner has near the minimum for his bid, tell your partner. The most common ways to do that are to skip a level of bidding (for example, opener 1 heart, responder 1 spade, opener 3 diamonds, a jump shift) and make a bid at the 2 level in a higher ranking suit than the opening bid was in (opener 1 diamond, responder 1 spade, opener 2 hearts, a reverse). Both force the responder to go to the 3 level if he prefers opener's first suit, and all show at least 19 points. Other strong bids include a jump in opener's suit (opener 1 heart, responder 1 spade, opener 3 hearts, which shows 17 points, plus 6 or more good hearts (at least headed by the AQ), a jump raise of partner's suit (opener 1 diamond, reponder 1 spade, opener 3 spades, which shows at least 17 points and 4 spades) or a bid at the 3 level (opener 1 spade, responder 2 diamonds, opener 3 clubs, a high reverse which shows at least 17 points).
Questions so far?
Given that it's such a broad topic, I'll probably have several of them. Also, so far I've been avoiding putting 10's into hands for fear of confusion. I am going to use T to signify a 10 from now on.
You open 1 diamond. Partner responds 1 heart. What is your rebid with the following hands (answers in white):
1. S KJ85 H 94 D AQJ6 C KT2
1 spade. Partner could have 4 of each major and bid hearts first as the cheaper suit, or even 5 spades and 4 hearts
2. S KJ85 H KQT7 D A65 C T8
2 hearts. Show partner your support, rather than bid spades
3. S KJ85 H KT7 D AQ97 C 65
A close call. Your hand is barely above a minimum, so I would confirm a fit by bidding 2 hearts, even though you may have 8 spades and 7 hearts between you. 1 spade would also be reasonable
4. S K3 H 85 D AJT85 C KQ64
2 clubs, showing your second suit, rather than 1 no trump, which would suggest a more balanced hand, or 2 diamonds, which would suggest a hand only interested in playing in that suit
5. S QT8 H J3 D KQ75 C AQT8
1 no trump. More balanced than 4
6. S KQ7 H A64 D AQ76 C KJ6
2 no trump, showing 18-20 HCP and balanced hand. If you had 4 hearts, you would prefer to raise to 3 hearts, though
7. S A2 H AJT8 D KQJ98 C J5
3 hearts. 17 points (including distribution), and 4 hearts
8. S KT4 H 8 D AKJT6 C AKJ8
3 clubs, a jump shift, telling your partner you have 19 or more points. You should be unbalanced to bid this, rather than 2 no trump
More to follow tomorrow.
You open 1 spade. Partner bids 2 spades. What do you rebid with the following hands (answers in white?)
1. S AJT74 H KQ76 D Q64 C 7
Pass. Partner has no more than 10 points, you have 14. The total is no more than 24, less than enough to bid game.
2. S AJT74 H KQ76 D AJ4 C 7
3 spades. You have 17 points, so game is possible if partner has a maximum. Let him decide
3. S AJT74 H Q76 D AQ4 C K7
3 spades. Don't look for game in no trump, even though your hand is balanced
4. S AKJ964 H 3 D AK4 C K85
4 spades. You have 20 points, partner has at least 6, so bid game, rather than making a bid partner can pass below game
You have an early Spring break. In PA, they tend to have it include Good Friday.
Anyway, we can probably put together a private game of Moters, if you want.
You open 1 heart, partner bids 1 no trump. What is your rebid (answers in white)
1. S Q53 H AQ743 D KQ2 C T5
Pass. You have a minimum, balanced hand, and no reason to believe any other contract is better. 1 no trump is not a forcing response
2. S 97 H AQJ43 D KQJ3 C T5
2 diamonds. Again, you are minimum, but unbalanced. Show your second suit and let partner choose
3. S A7 H AKJ43 D KQJ3 C T5
3 diamonds. You are substantially stronger than a minimum (18 HCP, plus 2 for the doubletons). You expect to make game somewhere, so jump shift. Partner cannot pass
4. S T3 H AQJ964 D KQ2 C 85
2 hearts. Rebidding a major suit implies 6 cards in it
5. S T3 H AQJ964 D KQ2 C A8
3 hearts. Partner can pass, but you are showing at least 17 points and a strong 6 card suit
6. S T3 H AQJ964 D KQ82 C 5
This is a close one, but you should generally renid a strong 6 card suit before bidding a 4 card suit. 2 hearts
7. S K4 H AJ864 D AQ6 C KJ8
2 no trump, showing a balanced hand and asking partner to bid game if he is on the high end of his 6-10 HCP range
if NT forcing
1. 2nt
2. 2c
3. 3d
4. 2h
5. 3h
6. 2h
7. 3nt
if NT forcing
1. 2nt
2. 2c
3. 3d
4. 2h
5. 3h
6. 2h
7. 3nt
jexster, I read your posts, though. Why are you bidding 2 clubs with hand 2 and not 2 diamonds? Also, isn't 2 diamonds better than 2 no trump with hand 1 in a 2/1 system? I though 2 no trump was a strong no trump opener.
2c was a typo #2 and I think you may correct about 1 come to think of it but also seem to recall that 2d would show shape min, 2c would deny another FCM, 2nt would be invitational to 3 of a suit or game in NT
Interesting, but I think you may be getting too high if both opener and responder have minimums if 2 no trump is forcing in that sequence.
Anyway, I am trying to teach something closer to "yellow card"/5 card majors, rather than 2/1.
gotta run...2nt invitational not forcing, pass on balanced hand or go to 3 of suit
yellow card is shorthand for a 5 card major, non-forcing no trump system which is in widespread use. It derives its name from tournaments where all players had to use the same standard yellow convention card. See posts 150-151 for a quick explanation of the basic opening bids (I have not covered strong 2 clubs or weak 2's yet).
Back in the '70's, yellow card tended to be called "Standard American", but was never as universal as that name suggests. When 2/1 started to become popular in the '80's, it was originally called something else, usually Eastern Scientific, to distinguish it.
You open 1 heart, partner responds 2 clubs. What is your rebid (answers in white):
1. S K874 H AJ732 D KQ3 C 6
2 hearts (reluctantly). You are not strong enough to rebid 2 spades, as that would be a reverse.
2. S KQ84 H AKJ72 D KQ3 C 6
2 spades. This hand is strong enough for a reverse
3. S 85 H KQT85 D A7 C K843
3 clubs. You have a minimum, but partner has at least 10 points, so confirm a fit.
4. S KJ5 H KQ954 D AJ6 C Q8
2 no trump. The strength of an opening 1 no trump bid, balanced distribution and stoppers in all unbid suits
5. S K5 H KQT954 D AJ6 C K8
3 hearts. Significantly stronger than a minimum, with 6 strong hearts
6. S K5 H KQT954 D AJ6 C 85
2 hearts. Minimum strength, 6 hearts
7. S KJ5 H KQ954 D AJ6 C 85
No really good answer. You are too weak to bid 2 no trump, can't support clubs with only 2, and 2 hearts would suggest a 6th card in the suit. I'd bid 2 hearts as the lesser of the evils. 2/1 game force players, this is the hand your system was designed for
Do you still need me to move the posts from the Cafe over here? You can copy and past them here if you need them. They aren't concerning me over there. It's tough to be "off topic" in the Cafe.
I think I'd prefer it, as jexster and I switched from one forum to another because of the white font problem. It may help some of the lurkers who don't really know what 2/1 game force is.
11286. jexster - 3/10/00 10:46:01 AM
Dantheman -
Very rusty you understand but that is what I used to play 20 years ago. A Roth-Stone variant, if I remember
1NT is forcing 1 round
2/1 forcing to game
short minors
wk majors 10-12 HCP, six cards AJ10xxx min
splinter bids
3NT jump was a balanced game force in partners major
2c - artificial 21-23 HCP
2d - same 23-25 HCP
OR
one of those weird 2minor conventions I've forgotten
unusual 2NT
11288. jexster - 3/10/00 10:46:17 AM
5 card majors
11298. jexster - 3/10/00 10:56:12 AM
Dantheman -
Late for class. Bridge destroyed undergrad grades - deja vu
1nt forcing resp to 1h but not 1 spade
rebids very very rusty on particularly to the stranger conventional bids
Thanks for the explanation...Last time I played duplicate it WAS called Standard American
Abandoned game when it became too stressful for partner. We were working on a system like Walsh or Western FCM as it was called on the Left Coast by some doctor who lived in Mexico, a jewish name, began with an R called "Standard international"
My erstwhile partner who still gets Bridge World for some reason tells me that things have gotten even more wild and aggressive in bidding since then.
As you can see I have forgotten at least 70% of what I used to know.
Rebid
1. 2nt
2. 2s
3. 3c
4. 2nt
5. 3nt
6. 2nt
what does "answers in white" mean?
Obviously, you are a good player and have forgotten how confusing
things can be to a true newcomer.
Al - I've forgotten much but NOT how hard four card majors are to bid
What do you bid after RHO opens 2s w/
Ax
AQ10xx
Ax
KQJxx ?
BTW: I'd be interested in a speed-chess thingy -- if only to further demonstrate to the outside world just how much I've mentally slowed down in the past few years.
Bridge, anyone?
Here's Their 'Bridge for Beginners' Section
with stuff from luminaries such as Roth & Kantar
A system for casual partnerships - bidding and defensive carding.
Answers in white means that I've posted answers in white font. If you hold down the left button on a standard mouse and run over the white areas, answers will appear.
Re: #207 -- the hand holds 14 cards. Which one do you want to remove? I am assuming 2 spades is a standard weak 2 (decent 6 card suit, approx. 6-10 HCP). If you remove a heart or a club, I would double, and then convert a 3 diamond response to 3 no trump, although there are certainly hands where bidding no trump directly or hearts directly would works better.
Bridge World is not the official ACBL publication, it's a separate, more advanced one. The Bridge Bulletin is the official publication. Bridge World Standard is a common 2/1 game force system.
You open 1 spade, partner responds 2 no trump. What is you rebid (answers in white):
1. S AJ7 H KJ964 D T6 C A53
3 no trump. Partner's bid says you have enough for game, and you should bid it, even with a minimum. Although partner could have 3 hearts, you are balanced and should stay in no trump
2. S AJ7 H KJ9654 D T C A53
3 hearts. You are unbalanced and have 6, not 5 hearts. Partner should bid game in hearts unless he is really unsuited for it (e.g., weak doubleton heart and all others suits well stopped)
3. S AJ7 H KJ964 D T C A953
3 clubs. You are unbalanced, so bid your second suit and let partner decide
4. S AJ76 H KJ964 D T C A53
3 spades. Since partner has indicated that the combined hands have enough for game, this is not a reverse
As mentioned in the exchange between jexster and myself (see posts 207 and 213) there is a type of bids called weak 2 bids. An opening bid of 2 diamonds, 2 hearts or 2 spades (not 2 clubs -- that bid is used for very strong hands) shows the following:
6 to 10 HCP (if you are stronger than that, open 1 of suit)
6 cards in the suit bid (no more, no less) with at least 2 of the top 3 or 3 of top 5 cards in suit (i.e., minimum of KQ or QJT).
No other 4 or longer card major suit
Responses to a weak 2 bid:
Bidding a new suit is forcing for one round, and shows at least 6 in that suit and suggests it as an alternative contract. Responder should have at least 12 points, not including any distribution in partner's suit.
Raises are primarily to make it harder for opponents to bid and are not forcing, but show at least 3 cards in partner's suit. If you are highly unbalanced in distribution and have a least 4 of partner's suit, bid game in his suit.
If you have a strong hand (at least 13 HCP) bid 2 no trump, which is forcing. Partner will respond in the suit in which he has an Ace or King if he has one, and returns to his suit otherwise. This will help you determine whether you have all suits stopped to bid 3 no trump if you don't have a fit, or whether bidding game in his suit makes sense.
Quizzes coming on future days.
Which of the following hands is appropriate for a weak 2 opening(answers in white):
1. S KQT854 H J96 D T C KT6
open 2 spades. Pretty close to a textbook example
2. S KQT8643 H J9 D T C KT6
don't open 2 spades. 6 cards, no more, no less, are required. We haven't yet covered preemptive bids, but I would open this 3 spades
3. S KQT863 H J963 D T C K6
don't open 2 spades with a 4 card heart suit. Pass instead. It would be hard to get to a heart contract if partner has 4 or 5 cards in that suit and is short in spades
4. S KQT863 H A96 D T C KT6
don't open 2 spades, you are too strong. Open 1 spade instead
5. S KT8763 H J96 D T C KT6
don't open 2 spades, your suit is too weak. Pass instead.
6. S KT6 H J96 D T C KQT863
don't open 2 clubs, that is a strong bid. Pass instead
Re your question in 207:
What do you bid after RHO opens 2s w/
Ax
AQ10xx
Ax
KQJxx ?
The proper bid is three spades, indicating two five card suits. The two-spade opener is obviously weak.
I can't remember the name of that convention, it's Matthews or Williams, or some such common last name. You should be so lucky as to actually get a hand where you can bid the convention. Basically, you bid the same suit as your oponent to shut them down and communicate your two-five card suits to your partner.
As I pointed out, that hand has 14 cards. I guessed that a club or heart would be removed, making Michaels inappropriate with a 5 card suit and a 4 card suit.
Oops, I didn't count the cards.
Re your quiz:
Hand 1: open 2 spades
Hand 2: open 3 spades
Hand 3 - this is a toughie. I would pass with 11 high card points, a 6-card spade suit and a 4-card heart suit and hope my partner opens 1NT!
Hand 4: open 1 spade
Hand 5: Open 2 spades
Hand 6: pass
Al - I've forgotten much but NOT how hard four card majors are to
bid"
No beginner should ever be given so much as a hint that they can open a 4-card major. That's what 1-club and 1-diamond bids are for: to show high card points but NO 5-card major!
you're right, it's Michael's!
4 card majors were prevalent through at least the 1960's, and many bridge players (probably including Al) initially learned them, as part of learning to play bridge from one of Goren's books. These days, it is rare for anyone in the US, at least, to play them, which is why I am not teaching them. However, many players did not learn 5 card majors until they became more advanced.
Also, please note that I post the answers to the quizzes in white, so you can see my answers by holding down the left mouse button and passing over the white space under each question.
Check your email.
Oooooooh, I get it now (the white space stuff.)
One of the reasons I divorced my second husband was because of how he bid. Has that topic been covered here yet??
I think divorce is more likely to be covered in The Legal Corner.
I have been covering bidding (slowly) and am mostly done non-competitive bidding other than higher level pre-empts and slam exploration. Start around post 150. Unfortunately, the pace at work is likely to increase, making it hard to do too much more at a time.
Are there any intermediate topics you would like me to discuss? I know Michaels cue bids have been mentioned, would you like a tutorial on that?
Re divorce and the Legal Thread... we all know there are laws for getting properly divorced, but there are also rules of Natural Law, which simply must include bad bidding!
Stayman was discussed at post 155, and a quiz was at 164. Let me know if you want something more specific.
Partner opens 2 hearts. What is your response (answers in white):
1. S KJ875 H A54 D T6 C 965
3 hearts. Your spade suit and hand are both way too weak to bid spades, especially since you know you have a heart fit. The other side has at least half of the points, so make it harder for them to bid
2. S T H QJ87 D KQ5 C T8632
4 hearts. They must have at least 9 spades, as partner has no more than 3. Make it hard for them to find their fit
3. S AJ7 H QJ87 D KQ53 C A2
4 hearts. This time, you expect to make 4 hearts, and if the opponents bid, expecting hand 2, they'll be badly surprised. Don't bid 2 no trump, since you know where you want to be, especially since partner is distributional
4. S AJ75 H T8 D KQ53 C AJ2
2 no trump. Here, are you not sure to have enough for game. Let partner tell you he has some strength, so that if you bid 3 no trump, you are sure to have a way to his hand, since you likely will have a heart loser
5. S AQJ865 H 85 D KQ8 C A6
2 spades. Let partner decide whether your spades or his hearts are the better fit.
A 2 clubs opening bid suggests that you nearly have enough strength to bid game in your own hand, being able to win at least 9 tricks by sheer force, including at least 4 quick tricks. This translates into at least 23 HCP, although slightly less is permissible if you have a long and strong suit. This opening bid forces partner to respond.
Responding to 2 clubs: A 2 diamond response is negative, and shows less than 1 1/2 quick tricks. It does not promise anything regarding the diamond suit.
Any other response shows at least 1 1/2 quick tricks. A bid in a new suit (2 hearts, 2 spades, 3 clubs or 3 diamonds) shows at least 5 cards in the suit. If you do not have a 5 card suit, respond 2 no trump with 8 to 10 HCP and 3 no trump with 11 to 13 HCP. If you have 6 or 7 HCP and no 5 card suit, respond 2 diamonds, even if you have 1 1/2 quick tricks.
Note that an opening 2 clubs bid puts the opener in charge. The responder cannot pass any bid less than a game contract.
Which of the following hands is suitable for opening 2 clubs (answers in white):
1. S AQJ975 H A6 D AK5 C KQ
open 2 clubs. You should be able to take 5 spades, 1 heart, 2 diamonds and 1 club
2. S T H AKT86 D AKQJ5 C K8
2 suited hands are a little tricky, but you should be able to take only 3 hearts and 5 diamonds by yourself. Open 1 heart, and plan to jump shift in diamonds
3. S AQ9 H KQJ3 D AKJ C KJ6
open 2 clubs, planning to bid 2 no trump next if partner bids 2 diamonds (showing 24-26 HCP)
4. S AKQT8653 H A6 D T5 C 7
Although this hand has 9 tricks (8 spades and 1 heart), it only has 3 quick tricks. Open 1 spade and bid 4 spades over nearly any response by partner
Partner opens 2 clubs. What is your response with the following hands (answers in white):
1. S KJ7 H QJ8 D Q97 C T753
2 diamonds. You have 9 HCP, but only 1/2 quick trick. If partner bids a suit, raise him. If partner bids 2 no trump, bid 6 no trump.
2. S AQT85 H T63 D 84 C 943
2 spades. You have 1 1/2 quick tricks and a 5 card suit.
3. S AJ85 H K854 D T6 C 875
2 no trump. You need a 5 card suit to respond in it over 2 clubs. If partner rebids 3 clubs or 3 diamonds, you will get a chance to show your suits (up the line, so bid 3 hearts next).
4. S 975 H 863 D 742 C 9632
You can't pass, so bid 2 diamonds. If partner bids a suit, bid 2 no trump as a second negative, to show a very weak hand.
Slams require taking 12 tricks for a small slam and all 13 tricks for a grand slam. If you do not make your contract, you lose the scoring bonus for bidding game. As a result, slams should only be bid when they are very likely to be made.
To bid a small slam in no trump, you need at least 33 HCP in the combined hands, a grand slam at no trump, at least 37 HCP. This ensures that you are not missing enough aces to be set immediately.
To bid a small slam in a suit, you need at least 33 points, at least a 9 card fit (this suggests why double raises require 4 cards in partner's suit), and the first round control (ace or void) of at least 3 suits, with second round control (king or singleton) in the fourth.
How do you determine if you have enough controls to bid slam? The most widely-used conventional bid in the world (Blackwood) is designed to help. By bidding 4 no trump, you ask partner to tell you the number of aces (only -- not voids) in his hand. He responds 5 clubs with 0 or 4 aces (hopefully, between your hand and the previous bidding, you can tell which), 5 diamonds with 1, 5 hearts with 2, and 5 spades with 3. If you have all 4 aces between yourself and partner, you can bid 5 no trump to ask for the number of kings, with the responses the same, only 1 level higher.
When shouldn't you bid Blackwood 4 no trump? Generally, if the specific aces in partner's hand are more important than the number of aces. For example:
1. If you have a void in a suit. If partner shows an ace, you don't know if it is in the suit you have a void in (in which case it is far less useful) or not.
2. If you have 2 or more cards in any suit which partner has not bid without the ace or king. If partner is missing an ace, you may have 2 losers in that suit or only 1 (if he has the king).
Do not bid Blackwood when partner's last bid is in no trump, as 4 no trump shows a hand strong enough for slam if partner has a maximum. for example, if partner opens 1 no trump, a 4 no trump response shows 15 or 16 HCP, and partner will bid 6 no trump with 18 HCP, pass with 16 HCP, and use his judgment with 17 HCP.
In this situation, a bid of 4 clubs, when such a bid skips a level of bidding, is the Gerber convention, asking for aces. If partner has 0 or 4 aces, he bids 4 diamonds; 1 ace, 4 hearts; 2 aces, 4 spades; and 3 aces, 4 no trump. Again, if you have all 4 aces, bidding 5 clubs asks for kings in the same way.
If asking for aces through Blackwood is not appropriate, the alternative to discover which aces partner has is by cue bidding. After the trump suit has been agreed upon by one partner raising the other's suit, a bid in a new suit shows first round control of that suit, and encourages partner to show a first round control outside the trump suit by bidding that suit. If there are no first round controls to show, return to the trump suit at the cheapest level. Thereafter, a bid outsde the trump suit by such person shows second round control of that suit.
Any questions? A quiz or two will follow tomorrow.
You open 1 heart, partner responds 3 hearts. What is your rebid (answers in white):
1. S K82 H AQT64 D A8 C K74
4 hearts. You have 17 points, partner has 13-15. You don't have enough for slam.
2. S KQ2 H AQJ64 D A8 C K74
4 no trump. If partner shows 1 ace, bid 6 hearts. If he has no aces, bid 5 hearts. If he has 2 aces, bid 5 no trump, and try 7 hearts if he has 2 kings, as well.
3. S KQ2 H AQJ64 D 83 C AK7
4 clubs. If partner has 1 ace, you could have 2 quick diamond losers. Partner should bid 4 diamonds if he has the ace or void, letting you bid the slam with confidence
You open 1 heart. Partner responds 2 spades (a jump shift -- at least 19 points). What is your bid with the following hands (answers in white):
1. S K97 H AQ964 D K96 C T6
3 spades. You have a minimum hand, with support for partner's suit. Let him make the first move towards slam
2. S KQ7 H AQJ64 D K962 C 6
4 no trump. Make sure you have enough aces, but slam looks very likely
3. S 6 H AQJ64 D K962 C KQ7
3 diamonds. Don't bid Blackwood unless you know where you're going. Take it slow until you find a fit.
4. S Q6 H AQJ64 D A96 C K73
4 no trump. This time, you know you want to end up in a no trump contract, so check aces first.
So far, we have been assuming that one side does all the bidding and the other side sits quietly and waits to make the opening lead. since bridge is a competitive game, this is not true. Both sides can and often do bid if they have something to say.
Generally, if the other side opens the bidding, there are several types of hands which you would want to bid:
1. If you have a strong unbid suit (at least 5 cards, at least 2 of top 3 or 3 of top 5 cards in suit) and a decent hand (around 9 HCP if you can bid in your suit at the 1 level, at least 11 HCP at the 2 level), then overcall by bidding in that suit. The upper limit on strength for an overcall is around 19 points -- if stronger than that, double and then bid your suit.
2. If you have at least 13 HCP, no single strong suit, but support (at least 3 cards including ace, king or queen or any 4 or more cards) for all unbid suits (and therefore tend to be short in the suit opened), then double. This asks your partner to choose a suit.
3. If you meet the requirements for a 1 no trump opening bid and have at least 2 stoppers in the suit(s) bid, bid 1 no trump.
4. If you have at least 5 cards in each of 2 unbid suits (but not if there is a 2 or more card difference in length between the suits -- in that case overcall in the longer, and if partner doesn't support, bid the shorter next time) which fit a special bid, with at least 8 HCP in the long suits, make that special bid. The special bids are:
a. If the suits are the 2 lowest unbid suits, bid 2 no trump (the unusual no trump).
b. If the opening bid was in a minor suit and your long suits are the 2 majors, or if the opening bid was in a major suit and your long suits include the other major, bid 2 of the suit opened (Michaels cue bid).
I am humbled by your winning the Oscar pool. This must bode well as testimony to your accumen as a bidder (you know how to read'em.)
Your right hand oppponent (i.e. if you are South, RHO is East) opens 1 heart. what is your bid (answers in white):
1. S KQT86 H 85 D A93 C J52
1 spade. A textbook 1 level overcall. Don't double, both because you're too weak and because you have such a strong preference for spades.
2. S J52 H 85 D A93 C KQT86
pass. Just too weak to overcall at the 2 level.
3. S AQ6 H 85 D A93 C KT862
double. You'd like a fourth spade, but you can't have everything.
4. S AJ64 H 8 D AQ93 C KT82
double. Perfect description of your hand.
5. S AKT96 H A32 D K3 C KQ8
double, then bid spades next time. You are too strong to overcall
6. S KJ6 H AQ5 D QJ8 C A873
1 no trump. You expect the opening bidder to have the king of hearts, so you have 2 heart stoppers
7. S 86 H AQ975 D AJ3 C K86
pass. You can't overcall in the suit opened. You can't double with no spade support. You're too weak for 1 no trump.
8. S KJT85 H 3 D 95 C AJ964
2 hearts. A Michaels cue bid, showing spades and a minor. If partner doesn't have spades support, he can bid 2 no trump to ask which minor you have
Yes, Blackwood is used by nearly everyone in some form or another. Given that these are lessons for beginners, I did not want to teach probably the currently most popular varient among tournament players, Roman Keycard. I covered standard Blackwood in posts 235 and 236, with questions about it in quizzes 237 and 238.
Ubiquitous,
Welcome to the Mote. Supposedly one of these days Ohio will change the thread name to Chess and Bridge or Games People Play.
And there were plans for a chess tournament. But I don't think anything has come of it yet.
I would like to discuss the variations of rules
ie.(en passant). Also im interested in the origins of chess. I have some info on a theory that Sun Tzu was responsible .
I don't play (I just basically know the rules and have played very seldom), but I'd be interested in reading any info you have.
I was going to try to learn bridge over my spring break, but it kind of got waylaid by other things (as many of my breaks seem to), so I'm still hoping to go through Dan's lessons.
Work has been very busy, which limits my ability to spend 1/2 hour or so composing a lesson, but hopefully, I'll be aqble to do something soon. Probably the next lesson will be responding to partner's double.
As noted in post 239, a takeout double implies that partner has some support (at least 3 cards including an honor or 4 cards) in all unbid suits. As a result, you should expect that the best trump suit for your side will be your longest suit, although you should prefer a major suit to a minor suit if you have an equal number of cards in each, or even 1 more in the minor than the major.
Since partner's double, if all other players pass, will make that the final contract, if the right hand opponent does not bid, you are compelled to bid, even if you have no points. the only exception is if you feel you can defeat the contract, knowing that partner's strength and usually length is elsewhere. This usually takes at least 8 HCP (so that you have the majority), and at least 5 trump, headed by not less than QJT.
Otherwise, if you have less than 8 HCP, bid the suit you think will be the best trump suit (see above) without skipping a level. If you have 8-12 HCP, skip a level in that suit. If you have at least 13 HCP, you expect to be able to make game, so bid the opponent's suit at the next level (a cue bid) asking partner to name his best suit.
If you have 8-10 HCP, no good suit of your own, and at least 1 stopper in the opponent's suit, bid 1 no trump. If you have 11-13 HCP and the other requirements of the last sentence, bid 2 no trump.
Quiz eventually.
Dan,
I'd like to thank you for the huge amount of time you've spent teaching us all bridge.
One day I'll try to read all your posts. I haven't read them fully yet because, well, I'm not ready for this level. I prefer to use "The Force" in bidding.
Let's cut through all the bullshit. Here's how you bid:
Bid something.
Look at your partner's face. Does she look happy? Hesitant? Upset?
How quickly does partner respond? Does she confidently shoot back a bid? Or does she hem and haw and then say, "Errr, um. Hmm. Let's see. I don't know... Two Diamonds, maybe?"
Based on your partner's facial bidding, make a new bid, re-bid, or pass.
Ace's quiz. You hold:
S AQJ86 H Q3 D KJ5 H A7
You bid One Spade. Based on your partner's reaction, what do you do?
(ANSWERS IN WHITE)
Partner nods deeply, smiling, and says, "Two Spades."
Bid Three Spades.
Partner says: "Spades? Spades? Hmmmm... Spades. Let's see. (counts spades with fingers; you see he only counts two). Nah, spades don't work. Hmmmm. Should I bid Clubs? Or Diamonds? Eh, the hell with it. Two Hearts."
Bid Two No Trump.
Partner says: "Jesus Christ, Spades again!? What the fuck is with this moron and Spades? Fucking TWO HEARTS, ASSHOLE!!!"
Bid "A cautious Three Hearts." (Say it with a question mark at the end, like "Three Hearts...???") Your partner may be a maniac and you don't want to provoke him.
You are lucky Bridge is a partership game so you can blame your pathetic bidding on your partner.
The people I usually play with are at my level or worse.
Haven't you heard the advice, always play with players better than you; that is how you improve. Of course, there is a logical fallacy in that advice, but take it anyway.
Your turn.
Horsey thing out in front of the nipple-head dude
You must want my leg pretty badly, if you're pulling it that hard.
BTW, with the hand in 254, I'd call the tournament director, since it only has 12 cards.
Anyway, I just finished another "chess by e-mail" game with a friend of mine. When I first moved to Namibia (back in 1994) we lived in a remote part of the country. Namibia still didn't have the Internet yet, nor e-mail. So we played a chess game by mail.
The game lasted TWO YEARS and ended in a draw! We didn't play another game for quite some time after that.
Oh yeah, I won this last game.
Left hand opponent opens 1 heart, partner doubles, right hand opponent passes. What is our bid (answers in white):
1. S 864 H T842 D 532 C 965
1 spade. If you pass, the opponents will make 1 heart easily. Get out as cheaply as possible.
2. S Q965 H K753 D K7 C T64
2 spades. Prefer to show a major suit to bidding no trump
3. S A963 H T64 D 7 C JT865
1 spade. Prefer to show a 4 card major to a 5 card minor suit
4. S T6 H KJ52 D AJ87 C 854
1 no trump. Prefer a no trump bid to a minor suit
5. S K642 H 2 D KQ87 C AJ63
2 hearts. Tell your partner game is certain, then look for the right suit
6. S 86 H KJT84 D Q85 C KT5
pass. You probably have as many hearts as the opening bidder, so if he draws all your trump, partner's high cards will win lots of tricks, along with you winning 1 or 2 tricks in trump. If he doesn't, you'll win lots of tricks in trumps, plus partner should have a quick trick or two
When the opponents double partner's opening bid, you do not need to respond, as partner will get another chance to bid. Also, there is another bid in your vocabulary: redouble. Standard responses are:
If you have at least 10 HCP, redouble. This tells partner you have the majority of points, but does not say anything about what the final contract will be. If the opponents bid, you may be interested in doubling them, expecting to set them several tricks. Otherwise, you will normally have room to find your best spot.
If you have support for partner's suit, especially if it is a major suit, show it. Since all hands with 10+ HCP redouble, raises tend to be more distributionally oriented, with a raise to 2 showing at least 3 cards in partner's suit and a generally balanced hand, a raise to the level shows 4+ cards and a less balanced hand, and a raise to 4 shows 5+ cards and an unbalanced hand (similar to over an opening bid). The idea is to tell partner how well the hands fit early, depriving the opponents of room to discover how well their hands fit.
A 1 no trump response shows 6-9 HCP, usually 1 or 2 cards in partner's suit, otherwise balanced distribution and scattered points.
A bid in a new suit shows at least 5 cards and some strength in that suit, 6-9 HCP, and implies 2 or less cards in partner's suit. Show support before bidding a new suit, except in extreme cases.
Quiz coming.
Partner opens 1 heart. Right hand opponent doubles. What is your bid with the following hands (answers in white):
1. S AT65 H 6 D KQ32 C Q964
Redouble. You don't necessarily have a fit, and no trump is a likely spot if you are the declarer. Still, you have the majority of the points, and may want to double any bid the opponents make
2. S 32 H AJ74 D K85 C QJ94
Redouble. This time, you know you are heading for game in hearts. However, if you bid it directly and opponents bid again, partner will take you for a very different hand
3. S 32 H Q6 D K65 C AQT843
Redouble, intending to bid clubs next
4. S Q965 H T86 D A8 C J742
2 hearts. Do not bid 1 spade or 1 no trump, show support first. 1 spade is especially bad, as the doubler probably has a better suit than you do
5. S Q965 H T6 D A85 C J742
1 no trump. Again, don't bid spades, as your suit is neither long nor strong enough
6. S T6 H J3 D AJT94 D Q643
2 diamonds. If the opponents passed, you would ahve been forced to bid 1 no trump, as you would be too weak to bid 2 diamonds. However, the point requirements are lowered after the double
7. S 64 H QJ75 D K643 C J85
2 hearts. Not distributional enough to bid 3 hearts, IMO (note, many experts would disagree)
8. S 4 H KJ75 D Q8643 C J85
3 hearts. This looks much safer to me
9. S 4 H KJ965 D Q8643 C 85
4 hearts. They can probably make 2 or 3 spades, while partner should have a good chance to set the diamonds and make 4 hearts or go down very little
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